Monday, May 24, 2010

Do Komodo Dragons have any teeth? Can you send pics if they have any teeth?

I didn't see any teeth in this pixs
They do not have teeth. They do have slavia that breaks down the tissue. I looked but it did not show teeth but there skull shows it does.
I believe that line of white near the edge of the mouth would be the teeth. I had an iguana once, and his teeth were the same; very difficult to see but razor sharp.

Do i put the heating mat at the bottom of vivarium or under it? its glass and standing on a wood stand.?

Under on side of tank. The other side is for your pet to cool off.
Heating mats always go under the tank not inside.. For one main reason they get really warm and a reptile can actually burn his underside by lying on it and another you do not have the cord up and out an also if it is an animal that needs to be sprayed for humidity you are not spraying an electrical cord, also if you hae a light source put the heat mat and light source on the same side so there is a cool side and a warm side to the tank also put the water dish on oppisite side of the heat for the same reason so they can go in it to get cool and also water evaporates more on the warmer side, so it will run dry quicker..
I would go with, Debbie W's answer, that's the best advise you can get right there!
Always put it under the glass NEVER in your tank.
Always under...otherwise you'll have a scorched lizzie :(
My mat sits on a 12mm thick piece of polystyrefoam, which protects the wood stand (they usally sell this in the sish section of pet stores). I've found that I don't need to leave my heat mat on for vey long, it heats up very fast and can make the glass bottom of the tank quite hot.
Good luck :)

Do I need a bigger tank for my Red Ear Sliders?

I have two in two tanks. One is "large flat" the other is "large tall".
I'd like to get them into the same tank, with a filter and more than 2-3" of water. These turtles are about 5" and I know they will grow much larger. I'm thinking at least a 30 breeder that is 36x18x12. Is this enough?
The rule of thumb for Red-ears and other pond turtles is about 10 gallons of water per inch of turtle shell length. A 5" turtle by itself should be in 50 gallons of water- or about a 75 gallon tank. to put your two 5" turtles together would be best in about 100 gallons of water, a very large plastic tub, a kiddie pond, etc.
It should not come as a shock that a species that in the wild likes a LOT of space needs big spaces in captivity. While many people, even some zoos, violate this guideline with minimal bad results, there are good reasons for the bigger tanks.
Big tanks help minimize things like stress and stress-related concerns, aggression, excessive shedding, water fouling, disease transmission, and so on.
Sadly, Red-ears get big. Many experts suggest that adult Red-ears should only be kept in very large outdoor ponds.
Yo can learn more about these guys at

Oh, and the bit about shallow water being good or safer- that is an old wives tale retailers made up a few decades ago to sell those stupid turtle-killing plastic bowls. What logic is there that an aquatic turtle cannot swim if given the chance and a good basking site to rest on?
get a ten to 20 gallon tank !!!
For babies you should be fine, but for a full grown slider you need a pond, they can be 10" across, so maybe plan for that rather than just the immediate future.
very wise a 5" turtle can drown in 2" water if it finds itself upside down it ideally needs 6" water mine like standing in the water at 45 degrees on there back legs with there snout out my 15yr old female is 9.5"long my male is 7" they were in a 36x18x18 for about 12yrs so i would say the tank you propose is fine but bigger is always better ;-).
Here is a list of common glass aquarium sizes.
Note: Volume and dimensions are estimates based on manufacturer information. Try to personally check this information before purchasing any kind of tank.
Gallons L x W x H (inches) Liters L x W x H (cm)
20 long 30 x 12 x 12 76 long 76 x 30 x 30
29 30 x 12 x 18 110 76 x 30 x 46
30 long 36 x 12 x 17 114 long 92 x 31 x 43
30 breeder 36 x 18 x12 114 breeder 93 x 46 x 30
40 48 x 13 x 16 152 122 x 33 x 41
40 long 36 x 18 x 13 152 long 93 x 46 X 33
40 breeder 36 x 18 x 16 152 breeder 93 x 46 x 41
50 36 x 18 x 18 190 93 x 46 x46
50 long 48 x 18 x 13 190 long 122 x 46 x 33
75 48 x 18 x 20 285 122 x 46 x 51
90 48 x 18 x 24 342 122 x 46 x 61
100 60 x 18 x 20 380 153 x 46 x 51
135 72 x 18 x 24 513 182 x 46 x 61
u need a bigger tank if u want a filtr and everything else like that
Yes, it is enough, but to make them more happier you should get a pond in your yard. put a dozen of guppies in the pond and the turtles will eat them. dont worry, all you need is a pond

Do I just clean my turtle's tank out with a sponge and water?

Or is there some kind of product that I should use?
Speaking from experience here.sponge and water is good. You can also use vinegar. But make sure you completely rinse it. Vinegar is safer then bleach!! I also have 2 algae eaters in their tank and a flying fox. They haven't bothered them yet...I own 4 of them...
If you have a good filtration system happening you don't need to clean as much.
I have my turtle tank down to a science..Turn filter off...feed.scoop poop and leftover food..turn filter on again.
Use a razor blade to clean the glass!!!!!
This should be fine, just don't use any household cleaning products, eg bleach, detergent as this could kill your turtle. you probably can get special products for the job, but there is no real need for them.
I know that turtles are carriers of salmonella so I would be very careful with turtles. The stagnant water and their body's bacteria can cause this. I would use rubber gloves and use bleach to clean the tank. Bleach is the only thing that kills bacteria, even the Aid's virus and then dries up, not causing harm to the animal. It takes about 15 mins. for sanitation at 10% chlorine to water and then allow it to dry completely and air out before putting the turtle back in. Google it to make sure. Good luck.
You can use a beach-water solution. Do, 3 parts water 1 part bleach. After you scrub it down, make sure you rinse it out really good.
just put ur turtle and every thing else out side and wash out the tank then add water and add every thing else back in the easiest way is to just get a filter
just take it outside and use a water hose and clean it WARNING if you put water in it will be very very VERY heavy

Do i Have to pay for a pet deposit even if it's a lizard?!?

I'm planning to get a leopard gecko for years! And i have experiences and I have enounter dogs, chickens, rabbits and birds! How can i convince my landlord to let me have a lizard? wat if she say no?
If she says no you can always sneak it past her. It's not like geckos are noisy animals. But for some reason, a lot of places have quit allowing reptiles. The only thing to do would be to ask and find out what she says then decide what to do from there.
At my apartment complex they only required a pet deposit for cats and dogs. Caged animals did not count in the pet limit, and did not need a deposit.
I don't see why she would say no, they are not a dangerous animal and have to be kept in a cage.

Do i have a good hermit crab habitat?

i have 2 water bowls with a sponge and fresh water , sand ,some molch thing ,shells ,a fake tree,food,a hermit crab hut , and real wood?
It sounds good, but one of your water bowls should have saltwater in it. Hermits, except for Ecuadorans, come from the ocean, and need to have some saltwater for bathing and drinking.
See this link for more on the setup:
Sounds good! Just make sure they have enough room to roam around.
it sounds nice, in a tank right? with a good lid, right? they can climb, keep that in mind. we have a nice hermit crag named marc..don't ask..and he loved his tank...we have a light too to make sure his temp in there stays at about 75-80 and keep him humid and dont forget to bathe him periodically, not with soap...just a nice water bath. ours hold his sponge like a teddy bear.
The water bowls have to be deep, you really only need a sponge if you're using it to keep the humidity up, the sand should be damp (like that you would use to make a sandcastle) and it should be 4"-5" thick. Keep in mind real wood will probably mold in a few weeks unless it's cholla wood or something. Your tank should be at least 10 gallons and it need a cover to keep the humidity in. You also need a hygrometer to measure the humidity and a thermometer to measure the temp. You also need salt water, it is crucial to hermit crabs survival.
What is the humdity and temp? do you have a hygrometer and thermometer, and good crabitat depends on these things. Here is a caresheet to see if you are really meeting the needs of your pet
no smaller than a 10 gallon glass tank, is preferable. A glass or plexiglass lid is also preferable, to keep proper temperature and humidity.
Temperature: 74-78 degrees F (thermometer)
Humidity: 70-80% relative (hygrometer)
moistened playsand, Forestbedding (Eco-Earth, Bed-a-Beast, etc). Moss and calcisand may also be added to the tank, however it is not recommended as a main substrate. minimum 3" deep or 2 1/2 times as deep as your tallest crab is tall if you have anything bigger then a micro.
Commercial crab foods, Vegetables (favorites include-carrots, lettuce, parsley, spinach, and corn), Fruits (favorites include-coconut, mango, apples, grapes, and pears), Meats (seafood, silversides and chicken are favorites), Grains, Peanut butter, eggs, seeds, algae and seaveggies. Please see for a list of other edible foods.
Purple pinchers need both fresh and salt water (dechlorinated %26 salt made with a good marine salt like Oceanic).
Turbo, pica/magpie, Sharks eye. Shells with circular openings are favorites
-Lethargic before and hyper after molting
-Legs tend to be dry and ashy pre-molt
-Will sometimes molt without a molt sac or other pre-molting symptoms
-Are thirsty and hungry pre-molt and post-molt
Other Characteristics:
-Sweet/nice temperament
-Love to climb
-Love to crowd into piles
-Not as active as other species such as the Es
-Like to hide during the day and are most active at night
-More willing to pinch if they feel threatened/scared
-Love to change shells
-Love to eat and climb on wood such as cholla/choya and corkbark

Do i feed the insects dead or alive?

depends on what your feeding usually alive
I always use alive
you feed them alive so the reptile has to catch them and use thier hunting instinct
no lizard wouldn't eat anything if the crickets were dead.
when you feed it feed it when it is alive so it won't die.
It depends on what you're feeding them to, whether they can hurt what you're feeding, and how the thing you're feeding prefers them. We can't give you a good answer based on the information you provided.
Feed the insects to your reptile or fish or whatever 'as you get them from the store' ... if they were purchased 'live' feed them to your 'critter' live, if they were purchased 'dead' (and you aren't being 'scammed' into buying something that shouldn't be sold) feed them 'dead.' I know it's really simple and sort of 'stupid' but your question was really a good one ... sometimes the 'simple ones' make the most difference.
You can do either, but I would always give my bearded dragon LIVE crickets. BUt if you buy them live give them live if you buy them dead... you have no choice.
You should feed insects alive not only to entertain your frog, but also to create an illusion of its natural habitat. Feeding them dead would not only confuse your frog, but there might be a small chance that your pet won't be able to find his meal since it is not attracting its attention.
i,would,feed,them,live,until,i... s/q.
depends if it is alive