Monday, May 24, 2010
Do Komodo Dragons have any teeth? Can you send pics if they have any teeth?
Answers:
yes
I didn't see any teeth in this pixs
They do not have teeth. They do have slavia that breaks down the tissue. I looked but it did not show teeth but there skull shows it does.
http://images.google.com/images?svnum=10...
I believe that line of white near the edge of the mouth would be the teeth. I had an iguana once, and his teeth were the same; very difficult to see but razor sharp.
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/eden/images...
http://www.boneclones.com/images/sc-027_...
Do i put the heating mat at the bottom of vivarium or under it? its glass and standing on a wood stand.?
Answers:
Under on side of tank. The other side is for your pet to cool off.
Heating mats always go under the tank not inside.. For one main reason they get really warm and a reptile can actually burn his underside by lying on it and another you do not have the cord up and out an also if it is an animal that needs to be sprayed for humidity you are not spraying an electrical cord, also if you hae a light source put the heat mat and light source on the same side so there is a cool side and a warm side to the tank also put the water dish on oppisite side of the heat for the same reason so they can go in it to get cool and also water evaporates more on the warmer side, so it will run dry quicker..
I would go with, Debbie W's answer, that's the best advise you can get right there!
Always put it under the glass NEVER in your tank.
Always under...otherwise you'll have a scorched lizzie :(
My mat sits on a 12mm thick piece of polystyrefoam, which protects the wood stand (they usally sell this in the sish section of pet stores). I've found that I don't need to leave my heat mat on for vey long, it heats up very fast and can make the glass bottom of the tank quite hot.
Good luck :)
Do I need a bigger tank for my Red Ear Sliders?
I have two in two tanks. One is "large flat" the other is "large tall".
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/pr...
I'd like to get them into the same tank, with a filter and more than 2-3" of water. These turtles are about 5" and I know they will grow much larger. I'm thinking at least a 30 breeder that is 36x18x12. Is this enough?
Answers:
The rule of thumb for Red-ears and other pond turtles is about 10 gallons of water per inch of turtle shell length. A 5" turtle by itself should be in 50 gallons of water- or about a 75 gallon tank. to put your two 5" turtles together would be best in about 100 gallons of water, a very large plastic tub, a kiddie pond, etc.
It should not come as a shock that a species that in the wild likes a LOT of space needs big spaces in captivity. While many people, even some zoos, violate this guideline with minimal bad results, there are good reasons for the bigger tanks.
Big tanks help minimize things like stress and stress-related concerns, aggression, excessive shedding, water fouling, disease transmission, and so on.
Sadly, Red-ears get big. Many experts suggest that adult Red-ears should only be kept in very large outdoor ponds.
Yo can learn more about these guys at http://www.redearslider.com
Oh, and the bit about shallow water being good or safer- that is an old wives tale retailers made up a few decades ago to sell those stupid turtle-killing plastic bowls. What logic is there that an aquatic turtle cannot swim if given the chance and a good basking site to rest on?
get a ten to 20 gallon tank !!!
For babies you should be fine, but for a full grown slider you need a pond, they can be 10" across, so maybe plan for that rather than just the immediate future.
very wise a 5" turtle can drown in 2" water if it finds itself upside down it ideally needs 6" water mine like standing in the water at 45 degrees on there back legs with there snout out my 15yr old female is 9.5"long my male is 7" they were in a 36x18x18 for about 12yrs so i would say the tank you propose is fine but bigger is always better ;-).
Here is a list of common glass aquarium sizes.
Note: Volume and dimensions are estimates based on manufacturer information. Try to personally check this information before purchasing any kind of tank.
Gallons L x W x H (inches) Liters L x W x H (cm)
20 long 30 x 12 x 12 76 long 76 x 30 x 30
29 30 x 12 x 18 110 76 x 30 x 46
30 long 36 x 12 x 17 114 long 92 x 31 x 43
30 breeder 36 x 18 x12 114 breeder 93 x 46 x 30
40 48 x 13 x 16 152 122 x 33 x 41
40 long 36 x 18 x 13 152 long 93 x 46 X 33
40 breeder 36 x 18 x 16 152 breeder 93 x 46 x 41
50 36 x 18 x 18 190 93 x 46 x46
50 long 48 x 18 x 13 190 long 122 x 46 x 33
75 48 x 18 x 20 285 122 x 46 x 51
90 48 x 18 x 24 342 122 x 46 x 61
100 60 x 18 x 20 380 153 x 46 x 51
135 72 x 18 x 24 513 182 x 46 x 61
u need a bigger tank if u want a filtr and everything else like that
Yes, it is enough, but to make them more happier you should get a pond in your yard. put a dozen of guppies in the pond and the turtles will eat them. dont worry, all you need is a pond
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/pr...
I'd like to get them into the same tank, with a filter and more than 2-3" of water. These turtles are about 5" and I know they will grow much larger. I'm thinking at least a 30 breeder that is 36x18x12. Is this enough?
Answers:
The rule of thumb for Red-ears and other pond turtles is about 10 gallons of water per inch of turtle shell length. A 5" turtle by itself should be in 50 gallons of water- or about a 75 gallon tank. to put your two 5" turtles together would be best in about 100 gallons of water, a very large plastic tub, a kiddie pond, etc.
It should not come as a shock that a species that in the wild likes a LOT of space needs big spaces in captivity. While many people, even some zoos, violate this guideline with minimal bad results, there are good reasons for the bigger tanks.
Big tanks help minimize things like stress and stress-related concerns, aggression, excessive shedding, water fouling, disease transmission, and so on.
Sadly, Red-ears get big. Many experts suggest that adult Red-ears should only be kept in very large outdoor ponds.
Yo can learn more about these guys at http://www.redearslider.com
Oh, and the bit about shallow water being good or safer- that is an old wives tale retailers made up a few decades ago to sell those stupid turtle-killing plastic bowls. What logic is there that an aquatic turtle cannot swim if given the chance and a good basking site to rest on?
get a ten to 20 gallon tank !!!
For babies you should be fine, but for a full grown slider you need a pond, they can be 10" across, so maybe plan for that rather than just the immediate future.
very wise a 5" turtle can drown in 2" water if it finds itself upside down it ideally needs 6" water mine like standing in the water at 45 degrees on there back legs with there snout out my 15yr old female is 9.5"long my male is 7" they were in a 36x18x18 for about 12yrs so i would say the tank you propose is fine but bigger is always better ;-).
Here is a list of common glass aquarium sizes.
Note: Volume and dimensions are estimates based on manufacturer information. Try to personally check this information before purchasing any kind of tank.
Gallons L x W x H (inches) Liters L x W x H (cm)
20 long 30 x 12 x 12 76 long 76 x 30 x 30
29 30 x 12 x 18 110 76 x 30 x 46
30 long 36 x 12 x 17 114 long 92 x 31 x 43
30 breeder 36 x 18 x12 114 breeder 93 x 46 x 30
40 48 x 13 x 16 152 122 x 33 x 41
40 long 36 x 18 x 13 152 long 93 x 46 X 33
40 breeder 36 x 18 x 16 152 breeder 93 x 46 x 41
50 36 x 18 x 18 190 93 x 46 x46
50 long 48 x 18 x 13 190 long 122 x 46 x 33
75 48 x 18 x 20 285 122 x 46 x 51
90 48 x 18 x 24 342 122 x 46 x 61
100 60 x 18 x 20 380 153 x 46 x 51
135 72 x 18 x 24 513 182 x 46 x 61
u need a bigger tank if u want a filtr and everything else like that
Yes, it is enough, but to make them more happier you should get a pond in your yard. put a dozen of guppies in the pond and the turtles will eat them. dont worry, all you need is a pond
Do I just clean my turtle's tank out with a sponge and water?
Or is there some kind of product that I should use?
Answers:
Speaking from experience here.sponge and water is good. You can also use vinegar. But make sure you completely rinse it. Vinegar is safer then bleach!! I also have 2 algae eaters in their tank and a flying fox. They haven't bothered them yet...I own 4 of them...
If you have a good filtration system happening you don't need to clean as much.
I have my turtle tank down to a science..Turn filter off...feed.scoop poop and leftover food..turn filter on again.
Use a razor blade to clean the glass!!!!!
This should be fine, just don't use any household cleaning products, eg bleach, detergent as this could kill your turtle. you probably can get special products for the job, but there is no real need for them.
I know that turtles are carriers of salmonella so I would be very careful with turtles. The stagnant water and their body's bacteria can cause this. I would use rubber gloves and use bleach to clean the tank. Bleach is the only thing that kills bacteria, even the Aid's virus and then dries up, not causing harm to the animal. It takes about 15 mins. for sanitation at 10% chlorine to water and then allow it to dry completely and air out before putting the turtle back in. Google it to make sure. Good luck.
You can use a beach-water solution. Do, 3 parts water 1 part bleach. After you scrub it down, make sure you rinse it out really good.
just put ur turtle and every thing else out side and wash out the tank then add water and add every thing else back in the easiest way is to just get a filter
just take it outside and use a water hose and clean it WARNING if you put water in it will be very very VERY heavy
Answers:
Speaking from experience here.sponge and water is good. You can also use vinegar. But make sure you completely rinse it. Vinegar is safer then bleach!! I also have 2 algae eaters in their tank and a flying fox. They haven't bothered them yet...I own 4 of them...
If you have a good filtration system happening you don't need to clean as much.
I have my turtle tank down to a science..Turn filter off...feed.scoop poop and leftover food..turn filter on again.
Use a razor blade to clean the glass!!!!!
This should be fine, just don't use any household cleaning products, eg bleach, detergent as this could kill your turtle. you probably can get special products for the job, but there is no real need for them.
I know that turtles are carriers of salmonella so I would be very careful with turtles. The stagnant water and their body's bacteria can cause this. I would use rubber gloves and use bleach to clean the tank. Bleach is the only thing that kills bacteria, even the Aid's virus and then dries up, not causing harm to the animal. It takes about 15 mins. for sanitation at 10% chlorine to water and then allow it to dry completely and air out before putting the turtle back in. Google it to make sure. Good luck.
You can use a beach-water solution. Do, 3 parts water 1 part bleach. After you scrub it down, make sure you rinse it out really good.
just put ur turtle and every thing else out side and wash out the tank then add water and add every thing else back in the easiest way is to just get a filter
just take it outside and use a water hose and clean it WARNING if you put water in it will be very very VERY heavy
Do i Have to pay for a pet deposit even if it's a lizard?!?
I'm planning to get a leopard gecko for years! And i have experiences and I have enounter dogs, chickens, rabbits and birds! How can i convince my landlord to let me have a lizard? wat if she say no?
Answers:
If she says no you can always sneak it past her. It's not like geckos are noisy animals. But for some reason, a lot of places have quit allowing reptiles. The only thing to do would be to ask and find out what she says then decide what to do from there.
At my apartment complex they only required a pet deposit for cats and dogs. Caged animals did not count in the pet limit, and did not need a deposit.
I don't see why she would say no, they are not a dangerous animal and have to be kept in a cage.
Answers:
If she says no you can always sneak it past her. It's not like geckos are noisy animals. But for some reason, a lot of places have quit allowing reptiles. The only thing to do would be to ask and find out what she says then decide what to do from there.
At my apartment complex they only required a pet deposit for cats and dogs. Caged animals did not count in the pet limit, and did not need a deposit.
I don't see why she would say no, they are not a dangerous animal and have to be kept in a cage.
Do i have a good hermit crab habitat?
i have 2 water bowls with a sponge and fresh water , sand ,some molch thing ,shells ,a fake tree,food,a hermit crab hut , and real wood?
Answers:
It sounds good, but one of your water bowls should have saltwater in it. Hermits, except for Ecuadorans, come from the ocean, and need to have some saltwater for bathing and drinking.
See this link for more on the setup: http://www.thecrabbagepatch.com/...
Sounds good! Just make sure they have enough room to roam around.
it sounds nice, in a tank right? with a good lid, right? they can climb, keep that in mind. we have a nice hermit crag named marc..don't ask..and he loved his tank...we have a light too to make sure his temp in there stays at about 75-80 and keep him humid and dont forget to bathe him periodically, not with soap...just a nice water bath. ours hold his sponge like a teddy bear.
The water bowls have to be deep, you really only need a sponge if you're using it to keep the humidity up, the sand should be damp (like that you would use to make a sandcastle) and it should be 4"-5" thick. Keep in mind real wood will probably mold in a few weeks unless it's cholla wood or something. Your tank should be at least 10 gallons and it need a cover to keep the humidity in. You also need a hygrometer to measure the humidity and a thermometer to measure the temp. You also need salt water, it is crucial to hermit crabs survival.
What is the humdity and temp? do you have a hygrometer and thermometer, and good crabitat depends on these things. Here is a caresheet to see if you are really meeting the needs of your pet
Housing/Crabitat:
no smaller than a 10 gallon glass tank, is preferable. A glass or plexiglass lid is also preferable, to keep proper temperature and humidity.
Temperature: 74-78 degrees F (thermometer)
Humidity: 70-80% relative (hygrometer)
Substrate:
moistened playsand, Forestbedding (Eco-Earth, Bed-a-Beast, etc). Moss and calcisand may also be added to the tank, however it is not recommended as a main substrate. minimum 3" deep or 2 1/2 times as deep as your tallest crab is tall if you have anything bigger then a micro.
Diet:
Commercial crab foods, Vegetables (favorites include-carrots, lettuce, parsley, spinach, and corn), Fruits (favorites include-coconut, mango, apples, grapes, and pears), Meats (seafood, silversides and chicken are favorites), Grains, Peanut butter, eggs, seeds, algae and seaveggies. Please see http://www.epicureanhermit.com for a list of other edible foods.
Purple pinchers need both fresh and salt water (dechlorinated %26 salt made with a good marine salt like Oceanic).
Shells:
Turbo, pica/magpie, Sharks eye. Shells with circular openings are favorites
Molting:
-Lethargic before and hyper after molting
-Legs tend to be dry and ashy pre-molt
-Will sometimes molt without a molt sac or other pre-molting symptoms
-Are thirsty and hungry pre-molt and post-molt
Other Characteristics:
-Sweet/nice temperament
-Love to climb
-Love to crowd into piles
-Not as active as other species such as the Es
-Like to hide during the day and are most active at night
-More willing to pinch if they feel threatened/scared
-Love to change shells
-Love to eat and climb on wood such as cholla/choya and corkbark
Answers:
It sounds good, but one of your water bowls should have saltwater in it. Hermits, except for Ecuadorans, come from the ocean, and need to have some saltwater for bathing and drinking.
See this link for more on the setup: http://www.thecrabbagepatch.com/...
Sounds good! Just make sure they have enough room to roam around.
it sounds nice, in a tank right? with a good lid, right? they can climb, keep that in mind. we have a nice hermit crag named marc..don't ask..and he loved his tank...we have a light too to make sure his temp in there stays at about 75-80 and keep him humid and dont forget to bathe him periodically, not with soap...just a nice water bath. ours hold his sponge like a teddy bear.
The water bowls have to be deep, you really only need a sponge if you're using it to keep the humidity up, the sand should be damp (like that you would use to make a sandcastle) and it should be 4"-5" thick. Keep in mind real wood will probably mold in a few weeks unless it's cholla wood or something. Your tank should be at least 10 gallons and it need a cover to keep the humidity in. You also need a hygrometer to measure the humidity and a thermometer to measure the temp. You also need salt water, it is crucial to hermit crabs survival.
What is the humdity and temp? do you have a hygrometer and thermometer, and good crabitat depends on these things. Here is a caresheet to see if you are really meeting the needs of your pet
Housing/Crabitat:
no smaller than a 10 gallon glass tank, is preferable. A glass or plexiglass lid is also preferable, to keep proper temperature and humidity.
Temperature: 74-78 degrees F (thermometer)
Humidity: 70-80% relative (hygrometer)
Substrate:
moistened playsand, Forestbedding (Eco-Earth, Bed-a-Beast, etc). Moss and calcisand may also be added to the tank, however it is not recommended as a main substrate. minimum 3" deep or 2 1/2 times as deep as your tallest crab is tall if you have anything bigger then a micro.
Diet:
Commercial crab foods, Vegetables (favorites include-carrots, lettuce, parsley, spinach, and corn), Fruits (favorites include-coconut, mango, apples, grapes, and pears), Meats (seafood, silversides and chicken are favorites), Grains, Peanut butter, eggs, seeds, algae and seaveggies. Please see http://www.epicureanhermit.com for a list of other edible foods.
Purple pinchers need both fresh and salt water (dechlorinated %26 salt made with a good marine salt like Oceanic).
Shells:
Turbo, pica/magpie, Sharks eye. Shells with circular openings are favorites
Molting:
-Lethargic before and hyper after molting
-Legs tend to be dry and ashy pre-molt
-Will sometimes molt without a molt sac or other pre-molting symptoms
-Are thirsty and hungry pre-molt and post-molt
Other Characteristics:
-Sweet/nice temperament
-Love to climb
-Love to crowd into piles
-Not as active as other species such as the Es
-Like to hide during the day and are most active at night
-More willing to pinch if they feel threatened/scared
-Love to change shells
-Love to eat and climb on wood such as cholla/choya and corkbark
Do i feed the insects dead or alive?
Answers:
depends on what your feeding usually alive
Alive
I always use alive
you feed them alive so the reptile has to catch them and use thier hunting instinct
no
Alive...my lizard wouldn't eat anything if the crickets were dead.
when you feed it feed it when it is alive so it won't die.
It depends on what you're feeding them to, whether they can hurt what you're feeding, and how the thing you're feeding prefers them. We can't give you a good answer based on the information you provided.
Feed the insects to your reptile or fish or whatever 'as you get them from the store' ... if they were purchased 'live' feed them to your 'critter' live, if they were purchased 'dead' (and you aren't being 'scammed' into buying something that shouldn't be sold) feed them 'dead.' I know it's really simple and sort of 'stupid' but your question was really a good one ... sometimes the 'simple ones' make the most difference.
You can do either, but I would always give my bearded dragon LIVE crickets. BUt if you buy them live give them live if you buy them dead... you have no choice.
You should feed insects alive not only to entertain your frog, but also to create an illusion of its natural habitat. Feeding them dead would not only confuse your frog, but there might be a small chance that your pet won't be able to find his meal since it is not attracting its attention.
i,would,feed,them,live,until,i... s/q.
depends if it is alive
ALIVE
Alive...
Do gartner snakes eat moth crystals?
Answers:
I don't think so. It's recommended that you use moth balls as a safe way to keep snakes away. I use them under my pool deck. I never found any dead snakes.
Gardner snakes eat mostly small insects such as crickets grasshoppers and things like that they may eat moths and butterfly's but they'd have to be easily caught.
no they like thier food to be live and kickin, they eat soft shelled insects, especially crickets
Do fancy hamsters fight and do dwarf hamsters fight?
Answers:
yes. Hamsters are solitary animals and keeping two together will generaly result in fighting and possibly death
(p.s. hamsters are rodents, not reptiles)
Honey, you posted this in the wrong section. Hamsters should be under the "rodent" category. Not the "reptile".
And to answer your question: hamsters (regardless of species) often are aggressive toward one another
hamsters do not like living with other hamsters they would kill each other so yes.
Do crickets like cardbard?
I just want to know because i want to catch them with a jar with something to lure them with
Answers:
The behavior of the cricket is to try and climb up to where it is warmer (or climb down). They like heat.
One night I woke up to a loose cricket in my hand. It was a bit interesting lol
Crickets will eat raw potatoes. But good luck catching one, they're very fast.
if you want to really lure them get egg cartons or get gut load. you need to watch them to make sure you can catch them.
Answers:
The behavior of the cricket is to try and climb up to where it is warmer (or climb down). They like heat.
One night I woke up to a loose cricket in my hand. It was a bit interesting lol
Crickets will eat raw potatoes. But good luck catching one, they're very fast.
if you want to really lure them get egg cartons or get gut load. you need to watch them to make sure you can catch them.
Do corn snakes lay eggs, even if they are not fertilised?//?
my snake layed 3 eggs (or what seemed to be eggs) a few days ago. they were yellowish in color and about 1/2 inch long.
Answers:
Yes, snakes can lay unfertilized eggs. They are known as slugs and some females will produce them every year even if they aren't bred. As long as she has safely passed them, I wouldn't worry about it. The eggs will not be fertile and you can safely throw them away. Be aware she might do this next year and you might want to provide a nest box for her so that she doesn't retain eggs looking for a suitable nest spot. Many times the female will ovulate and then reabsorb the eggs so next year she may or may not lay them.
snakes wont lay eggs for the hell of it like chickens do...the eggs are fertilized when they are made...meaning, the second that snakes mate, an egg is produced...
No, candle light them to see if they are fertile (put a flashlight under them). It is possible that your snake was gravid when you bought her.
I'm not sure. I have a 9-10 year old Mangrove Monitor Lizard female and she has NEVER been any were close to a lizard, let alone another male lizard and she lays eggs all the time, then eats them. they aren't fertile, they are flat and soft. I have never understood why she does this, but she does. I do not think snakes do the same thing, I would call a herpetologist and ask.
Gallianomom gave you the best answer. Yes, snakes do both, lay eggs that are not unfertilized, and sometimes reabsorb unfertilized eggs. Strangely enough, the same snake will do either...
Answers:
Yes, snakes can lay unfertilized eggs. They are known as slugs and some females will produce them every year even if they aren't bred. As long as she has safely passed them, I wouldn't worry about it. The eggs will not be fertile and you can safely throw them away. Be aware she might do this next year and you might want to provide a nest box for her so that she doesn't retain eggs looking for a suitable nest spot. Many times the female will ovulate and then reabsorb the eggs so next year she may or may not lay them.
snakes wont lay eggs for the hell of it like chickens do...the eggs are fertilized when they are made...meaning, the second that snakes mate, an egg is produced...
No, candle light them to see if they are fertile (put a flashlight under them). It is possible that your snake was gravid when you bought her.
I'm not sure. I have a 9-10 year old Mangrove Monitor Lizard female and she has NEVER been any were close to a lizard, let alone another male lizard and she lays eggs all the time, then eats them. they aren't fertile, they are flat and soft. I have never understood why she does this, but she does. I do not think snakes do the same thing, I would call a herpetologist and ask.
Gallianomom gave you the best answer. Yes, snakes do both, lay eggs that are not unfertilized, and sometimes reabsorb unfertilized eggs. Strangely enough, the same snake will do either...
Do chinese water dragons sleep underwater? or breathe underwater?
my chinese water dragon keeps on going into the water and there are big rocks in the water. it gets in between the rocks and justs lays there. then i put it back on its sleeping platform thing (a log with a flat top) but it gets back into the water and moves around really fast like it is drowning.
the water is 2 inches deep. the dragon is about 4-5 months old. and it is 3 inches long not including the tail.
Answers:
mine is about 8 or 9 months old, and from tip to tail, he's probably somewhere between a foot and a half to two feet long.
but mine seems to hate the darn water. sometimes he'll sit on the edge of his tub, so just his tail is in there, but if we put him in, all he does is climb out as soon as possible.
i STILL have no idea what the heck temperature the water should be at. SOMEONE needs to put that to an exact degree. this whole "pee warm, lukewarm' bussiness is useless. there's huge differences between what i might think is lukewarm and what my boyfriend thinks.
anyways. as we don't have a heater, we assume that the water will become room temperature after a while anyways, but our guy won't ever get in the water. wich is bad, cause he has massive problems shedding. but yeah. how do you trian yours to actually acknoledge the "water' part of their names??
no not really
This behavior is normal. They can't breathe underwater but they enjoy soaking frequently.
both because he is a fish and i asked the petstore and yea just to make sure ask a pet expert!
WAT THE FRICK IS A CHINESE WATER DRAGON (doing in th water??) ???!!!
Check out this website for good info!
http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com/...
the water is 2 inches deep. the dragon is about 4-5 months old. and it is 3 inches long not including the tail.
Answers:
mine is about 8 or 9 months old, and from tip to tail, he's probably somewhere between a foot and a half to two feet long.
but mine seems to hate the darn water. sometimes he'll sit on the edge of his tub, so just his tail is in there, but if we put him in, all he does is climb out as soon as possible.
i STILL have no idea what the heck temperature the water should be at. SOMEONE needs to put that to an exact degree. this whole "pee warm, lukewarm' bussiness is useless. there's huge differences between what i might think is lukewarm and what my boyfriend thinks.
anyways. as we don't have a heater, we assume that the water will become room temperature after a while anyways, but our guy won't ever get in the water. wich is bad, cause he has massive problems shedding. but yeah. how do you trian yours to actually acknoledge the "water' part of their names??
no not really
This behavior is normal. They can't breathe underwater but they enjoy soaking frequently.
both because he is a fish and i asked the petstore and yea just to make sure ask a pet expert!
WAT THE FRICK IS A CHINESE WATER DRAGON (doing in th water??) ???!!!
Check out this website for good info!
http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com/...
Do black or King snakes keep away poisonous snakes.?
I have always heard that you should not kill non-poisonous snakes because they will keep the poisonous snakes away. Like copperheads and rattlesnakes will not come around if there are black snakes,king snakes or garner snakes around your house. Is this true?
Answers:
King snakes eat mammals, birds, even other reptiles! Some king snakes live completely on rattle snakes (many of which are bigger than the king snakes!)
-quirks an eyebrow- Let me see if I'm understanding what you're saying: You SHOULD kill poisonous snakes? -scowls- Well sure, let's go and blame the snake and mess up the food chain. Good ra, just leave them alone!
yes ... expecally king snakes they are faster then most of your rattlers or other snakes. they do eat other snakes and rodents.
IM not sure about garter snakes, but i knw for sure king snakes keep ALL snakes away usually poisonous or not. They are just known for killing poisonous snakes like rattlers because hardly any other species will.
It's true that you should not kill ANY snakes, venomous or not.
However, kingsnakes do not seek out other snakes. Yes, they will eat other snakes, including venomous, on occasion, but their diet consists mostly of rodents and birds.
Black rat snakes seldom eat other snakes; Black racers, like kingsnakes, will if the opportunity presents itself.
Garter snakes do not eat other snakes.
One more time: King snakes DO NOT keep venomous snakes away!
Answers:
King snakes eat mammals, birds, even other reptiles! Some king snakes live completely on rattle snakes (many of which are bigger than the king snakes!)
-quirks an eyebrow- Let me see if I'm understanding what you're saying: You SHOULD kill poisonous snakes? -scowls- Well sure, let's go and blame the snake and mess up the food chain. Good ra, just leave them alone!
yes ... expecally king snakes they are faster then most of your rattlers or other snakes. they do eat other snakes and rodents.
IM not sure about garter snakes, but i knw for sure king snakes keep ALL snakes away usually poisonous or not. They are just known for killing poisonous snakes like rattlers because hardly any other species will.
It's true that you should not kill ANY snakes, venomous or not.
However, kingsnakes do not seek out other snakes. Yes, they will eat other snakes, including venomous, on occasion, but their diet consists mostly of rodents and birds.
Black rat snakes seldom eat other snakes; Black racers, like kingsnakes, will if the opportunity presents itself.
Garter snakes do not eat other snakes.
One more time: King snakes DO NOT keep venomous snakes away!
Do ball pythons grow to their enviroment and surrounding [how big their cage is]?
so im more than likely gonna buy a ball python...a small baby one...so if i keep it in a small i think 10 gallon fish tank...will it keep growing to were i have to buy a bigger cage,or do they grow depending on the size of there cages[like fish do]
Answers:
first of all... its a myth that fish grow depending on the size of their enclosures... fish (unless they are a small type) will keep growing to their adult size.. (like gold fish... they get around 12-16 inches)...
a baby ball python will do ok in a 10 gallon but a 20 gallon long would be better and you could keep it in the 20 gallon long until it is about 2-3 feet then a 40 gallon would be needed.. and the 40 gallon would be able to be used for the rest of the snake's life unless you want to have a custom tank built
Monty Pythons grow to be 8ft tall
No, that is a myth. An animal that is kept in too small a tank will suffer health problems which will affect it's growth. A full grown snake will need at least a 30 gallon tank (a 55 would be ideal). They typically grow up to 4 feet long in captivity, but can reach 6 feet.
http://www.anapsid.org/ball.html...
http://www.kingsnake.com/ballpythonguide...
http://my.pclink.com/~dkelley/python.htm...
they grow HUGE and you will eventually have 2 get sum really REALLY exspensive cage sooner or later(if you buy it)
No. They will continue to grow eventually they will be too big for the cage.
When they out grow the cage you have to get a new one. But don't worry Ball Pythons don't grow too big. Normally around about 5 feet long. But not much longer.
Good Luck with your Ball Python
Krstl
ball pythons get between 4 and 6 feet long, so a ten gallon will do it for a long time, but it eventually will need a bigger tank, a 30-40 gallon will work great.
BTW technically you could keep it in a ten and it would stop growing before it reached its full size but it would be very cramped and uncomfortable.
You're gonna need a 40 gallon tank for when they get older my boyfriend wants one too we researched them very well. They get up to like 80lbs and can be as long as 6ft in length. Generally tho they wont get any bigger than 4ft.
Answers:
first of all... its a myth that fish grow depending on the size of their enclosures... fish (unless they are a small type) will keep growing to their adult size.. (like gold fish... they get around 12-16 inches)...
a baby ball python will do ok in a 10 gallon but a 20 gallon long would be better and you could keep it in the 20 gallon long until it is about 2-3 feet then a 40 gallon would be needed.. and the 40 gallon would be able to be used for the rest of the snake's life unless you want to have a custom tank built
Monty Pythons grow to be 8ft tall
No, that is a myth. An animal that is kept in too small a tank will suffer health problems which will affect it's growth. A full grown snake will need at least a 30 gallon tank (a 55 would be ideal). They typically grow up to 4 feet long in captivity, but can reach 6 feet.
http://www.anapsid.org/ball.html...
http://www.kingsnake.com/ballpythonguide...
http://my.pclink.com/~dkelley/python.htm...
they grow HUGE and you will eventually have 2 get sum really REALLY exspensive cage sooner or later(if you buy it)
No. They will continue to grow eventually they will be too big for the cage.
When they out grow the cage you have to get a new one. But don't worry Ball Pythons don't grow too big. Normally around about 5 feet long. But not much longer.
Good Luck with your Ball Python
Krstl
ball pythons get between 4 and 6 feet long, so a ten gallon will do it for a long time, but it eventually will need a bigger tank, a 30-40 gallon will work great.
BTW technically you could keep it in a ten and it would stop growing before it reached its full size but it would be very cramped and uncomfortable.
You're gonna need a 40 gallon tank for when they get older my boyfriend wants one too we researched them very well. They get up to like 80lbs and can be as long as 6ft in length. Generally tho they wont get any bigger than 4ft.
Diseases?
What kind of dieases can a snake get? How do you treat them? Are they fatal?
Answers:
Various ranging from internal parasites to impaction to external parasites. Home remedies are not the way to treat what you have not even diagnosed correctly. A visit to the vet ends up saving you money in the end, and extending the life of the snake
Snakes can suffer from a variety of things, not just diseases, such as dehydration (demonstrated by longitudinal and vertical folds of skin, an apparent lack of supple appearance when coiled, and by a pervasive "dried" look); ectoparasites (mites and ticks) (ticks are easier to deal with than mites, in that they are bigger and present in only small amounts, and are also readily seen; mites are more difficult, in that they are smaller and are often in large numbers); stress; burns, bites, and abscesses; respiratory distress (prolonged cold temperatures, especially in damp situations, can cause a cold or pneumonia); infectious stomatitis (mouth rot) (areas of white, cheesy-looking material along the gums of the snake and can be caused by stress, mouth injuries, or unsanitary caging); blister disease (caused by a bacterial malady associated with dirty water and unclean caging and also by very high humidity or when the substrate is wet); internal parasites (roundworms, tapeworms, amebiasis (causes extensive damage to the intestinal lining and liver), trichomoniasis (causes inappetence, vomiting, and diarrhea).
Some of the above-mentioned can be treated by over-the-counter medications sold at local pet stores. However, some require a visit to your local vet who specializes in herps. And yes, some of the above can be fatal.
Check out this website that lists other diseases, etc. that I have not mentioned:
http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com/repti...
If you go to petco.com you can go to the caresheets and it will tell you about a few diesease and red flags.
Good Luck
*Krstl*
Answers:
Various ranging from internal parasites to impaction to external parasites. Home remedies are not the way to treat what you have not even diagnosed correctly. A visit to the vet ends up saving you money in the end, and extending the life of the snake
Snakes can suffer from a variety of things, not just diseases, such as dehydration (demonstrated by longitudinal and vertical folds of skin, an apparent lack of supple appearance when coiled, and by a pervasive "dried" look); ectoparasites (mites and ticks) (ticks are easier to deal with than mites, in that they are bigger and present in only small amounts, and are also readily seen; mites are more difficult, in that they are smaller and are often in large numbers); stress; burns, bites, and abscesses; respiratory distress (prolonged cold temperatures, especially in damp situations, can cause a cold or pneumonia); infectious stomatitis (mouth rot) (areas of white, cheesy-looking material along the gums of the snake and can be caused by stress, mouth injuries, or unsanitary caging); blister disease (caused by a bacterial malady associated with dirty water and unclean caging and also by very high humidity or when the substrate is wet); internal parasites (roundworms, tapeworms, amebiasis (causes extensive damage to the intestinal lining and liver), trichomoniasis (causes inappetence, vomiting, and diarrhea).
Some of the above-mentioned can be treated by over-the-counter medications sold at local pet stores. However, some require a visit to your local vet who specializes in herps. And yes, some of the above can be fatal.
Check out this website that lists other diseases, etc. that I have not mentioned:
http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com/repti...
If you go to petco.com you can go to the caresheets and it will tell you about a few diesease and red flags.
Good Luck
*Krstl*
Differance between a tortoise and a turtle?
Answers:
Tortoises are the land dwellers that we know.
Turtles live in the ocean.
EDIT: Yes, not just in the ocean, also in freshwater.
Yes there is a huge difference.
Tortoise lives exclusively on land. Turtles live in the water, fresh and salt.
I believe the difference is that turtles can swim and tortiose are land animals. Not entirely sure.
Tortoises are terrestrial, turtles are aquatic (either fresh water or sea water).
A tortoise is mostly what you see, like where I live in desert, place a turtle is most comman with a area of water more! Tortoise, is a little more hard in schell, then a trutle! They have more of dark color of a brown and trutle has more color of a green tint!
tortoise are bigger and live longer ther lazy and dont live in water turtles are smaller active and swim
this is a turtle
http://www.felixcam.com/
this is a tortoise
http://www.tortoise.org/gallery/picruss.
A tortoise is a land turtle and rarely get wet. A turtle goes in the water and on land. What ever you deside to get you can find it at www.reptilecity.com
Tortoises have penises and turtles have vaginas.
Jeffery the Great has spoken!
Did you know people eat alligators?
my mom says where she lives there is a resturant where they serve alligator meat and they serve ostrich soup, yuk DX.
Answers:
Yes, actually. Alligator is especially popular in the Bayou area, such as New Orleans. It really does taste like chicken, except with a chewier and rubbery consistency. As said by the other person, it isn't that rare. You should consider trying it. As for the ostrich soup, I have heard of people eating ostrich, but not ostrich soup. I've never had it but honestly it sounds kind of gross. People eat a lot of strange things, bugs, kangaroos, dogs, some cats. It depends a lot on culture and what foods people gew up with.
Hope this help!
alligator meat isnt that rare.. its actually not bad and tastes like chicken.
Ew. Maybe their culture is prone to eating that, like Korea eats dog meat (I know, tragic ain't it)!
yummy... i'm hungry now
I didn't know that. Well u know what they say. U learn something everyday.
Well. Alligators been eating people for a while. The alligators say people taste like chicken.
gator meat is actually pretty good.taste like chicken
yup, plenty of people find alligators and ostriches good enough to eat, literally
You won't find alligator steaks on many restaurant menus but alligator is actually very good. And yes it does remind me of Chicken.. So does Rattlesnake...LOL
Yes. People do eat alligators.
I was visiting some friends in florida and we went to a restaurant that served alligator. I ordered fried gator tails. They taste like chicken, but are much greasier. ^^;
Answers:
Yes, actually. Alligator is especially popular in the Bayou area, such as New Orleans. It really does taste like chicken, except with a chewier and rubbery consistency. As said by the other person, it isn't that rare. You should consider trying it. As for the ostrich soup, I have heard of people eating ostrich, but not ostrich soup. I've never had it but honestly it sounds kind of gross. People eat a lot of strange things, bugs, kangaroos, dogs, some cats. It depends a lot on culture and what foods people gew up with.
Hope this help!
alligator meat isnt that rare.. its actually not bad and tastes like chicken.
Ew. Maybe their culture is prone to eating that, like Korea eats dog meat (I know, tragic ain't it)!
yummy... i'm hungry now
I didn't know that. Well u know what they say. U learn something everyday.
Well. Alligators been eating people for a while. The alligators say people taste like chicken.
gator meat is actually pretty good.taste like chicken
yup, plenty of people find alligators and ostriches good enough to eat, literally
You won't find alligator steaks on many restaurant menus but alligator is actually very good. And yes it does remind me of Chicken.. So does Rattlesnake...LOL
Yes. People do eat alligators.
I was visiting some friends in florida and we went to a restaurant that served alligator. I ordered fried gator tails. They taste like chicken, but are much greasier. ^^;
Desert King Snake Feeding?
Does anybody feed their snake multiple pinky mice at once? My Desert King snake eats two in one sitting every week, is it okay to do this? Thanks.
Answers:
Snakes can eat prey that is the width of the largest part of their body. If your snake is taking more than one pinky mouse a week, you might want to move up to fuzzies or even larger if he's ready for it.
Eating more than one item ends up being a waste of energy. Your snake has to strike, constrict, then swallow and digest his prey. If he's doing that multiple times, then it's just taking that much more energy from him.
Also, you don't want to make the mistake of power feeding. This is where a snake is overfed to make it grow larger, faster. While the snakes do grow quickly, this type of feeding takes a toll on the heart and other vital organs and can reduce your snake's lifespan.
Don't worry about moving up to a larger size mouse. It sounds like your snake is probably ready for it.
Yes, but you should feed it progressively larger mice, as larger mice have more nutrition and less fat.
Answers:
Snakes can eat prey that is the width of the largest part of their body. If your snake is taking more than one pinky mouse a week, you might want to move up to fuzzies or even larger if he's ready for it.
Eating more than one item ends up being a waste of energy. Your snake has to strike, constrict, then swallow and digest his prey. If he's doing that multiple times, then it's just taking that much more energy from him.
Also, you don't want to make the mistake of power feeding. This is where a snake is overfed to make it grow larger, faster. While the snakes do grow quickly, this type of feeding takes a toll on the heart and other vital organs and can reduce your snake's lifespan.
Don't worry about moving up to a larger size mouse. It sounds like your snake is probably ready for it.
Yes, but you should feed it progressively larger mice, as larger mice have more nutrition and less fat.
Dark black spots igunnas help asap hurry it up?
over the past few days ive seen my iguana has black spots on hes back wat could this be or does it mean hes healthy? pleaz let me know asap thanks tyler
Answers:
Could be a sign of stress. If they go away after it's back in its cage, it may just be that it isn't used to you or it is getting cold.
Just Google the symptoms, I suggest that because it will take less time than waiting for someone to tell you, plus too many people will say different things. If you Google it, and find a few reliable sites, you are more likely to be able to help your iguana if there is something wrong. Personally, I have no experience with iguanas or reptiles at all, but I have a lot of experience looking up stuff. Quick! Google! Or Yahoo!, but I find that Yahoo! is a better homepage while Google is a better search engine.
How old is your ig? How long have you owned him/her? You may be noticing him getting ready to shed (a discoloration may occur - though it is usually a "greying" effect - not black spots). The ig may have mites and you may be seeing the effect of those mites under the skin. If you can't determine if s/he's shedding, then seek help from a vet. If they are mites, they can be treated easily.
If you are new to igs..these things will become less scary over time...Remain calm, as you get to know your animal and what is "normal" for him/her.
You rudely demand people to hurry up. Why don't YOU hurry up and take your iguana to a VET?! Get off your lazy butt, stop wasting time on the computer and do the responsible thing.
It is your pet's RIGHT BY LAW to receive proper medical care and to deny it is abuse. If you can't or won't get your pet to a vet and provide responsible care, then you have no right to have one.
It could be a fungal infection . It could be poop or several other things . Try giving him a warm bath , cleaning the cage and if its still there take him to a good reptile vet for a check up .If its fungus he will need treatment .
Answers:
Could be a sign of stress. If they go away after it's back in its cage, it may just be that it isn't used to you or it is getting cold.
Just Google the symptoms, I suggest that because it will take less time than waiting for someone to tell you, plus too many people will say different things. If you Google it, and find a few reliable sites, you are more likely to be able to help your iguana if there is something wrong. Personally, I have no experience with iguanas or reptiles at all, but I have a lot of experience looking up stuff. Quick! Google! Or Yahoo!, but I find that Yahoo! is a better homepage while Google is a better search engine.
How old is your ig? How long have you owned him/her? You may be noticing him getting ready to shed (a discoloration may occur - though it is usually a "greying" effect - not black spots). The ig may have mites and you may be seeing the effect of those mites under the skin. If you can't determine if s/he's shedding, then seek help from a vet. If they are mites, they can be treated easily.
If you are new to igs..these things will become less scary over time...Remain calm, as you get to know your animal and what is "normal" for him/her.
You rudely demand people to hurry up. Why don't YOU hurry up and take your iguana to a VET?! Get off your lazy butt, stop wasting time on the computer and do the responsible thing.
It is your pet's RIGHT BY LAW to receive proper medical care and to deny it is abuse. If you can't or won't get your pet to a vet and provide responsible care, then you have no right to have one.
It could be a fungal infection . It could be poop or several other things . Try giving him a warm bath , cleaning the cage and if its still there take him to a good reptile vet for a check up .If its fungus he will need treatment .
Cumberland turtle?
I have recently bought 2 cumbrian semi aquatic turtles. I'm aware that in time they will need a lot bigger tank. I was wondering if anyone knows of a good website that sells larger turtle tanks?
Answers:
i have 3 cumberland sliders and 1 yellow bellied terrapin at the moment, if females your sliders will get to approx 14 inches across the shell. males only stay smaller around 8 inches.
as well as the tank size, please make sure you have adequate UV lighting for them, and more than adequate filtration, for terrapins / sliders, the best way to do it is filter for double your tank. if you have a 4 foot tank, put enough filtrarion in for a 8 foot. terrapins / sliers are dirty eaters and you will need plenty of filtration to keep up with them.
I bought my tank from Seapets, not only were they cheaper there, they deliver free of charge. By the way, what are Cumbrian turtles? I live in Cumbria and have never heard of them. I think this is a leg pull.
http://www.turtlesale.com/home/index.php...
Answers:
i have 3 cumberland sliders and 1 yellow bellied terrapin at the moment, if females your sliders will get to approx 14 inches across the shell. males only stay smaller around 8 inches.
as well as the tank size, please make sure you have adequate UV lighting for them, and more than adequate filtration, for terrapins / sliders, the best way to do it is filter for double your tank. if you have a 4 foot tank, put enough filtrarion in for a 8 foot. terrapins / sliers are dirty eaters and you will need plenty of filtration to keep up with them.
I bought my tank from Seapets, not only were they cheaper there, they deliver free of charge. By the way, what are Cumbrian turtles? I live in Cumbria and have never heard of them. I think this is a leg pull.
http://www.turtlesale.com/home/index.php...
Cross BREEDING AQUATIC TURTLES QUESTIONS?
Red eared sliders + painted = ?
Red eared sliders + map = ?
Red eared sliders + cooter = ?
Red eared sliders + slider = ?
Painted + Red eared sliders = ?
Painted + Cooter = ?
Painted + map = ?
Painted + slider = ?
map + Cooter = ?
map + red eared slider = ?
map + painted = ?
map + slider = ?
slider + map = ?
slider + cooter = ?
slider + Red eared slider = ?
slider + Painted = ?
cooter + map = ?
cooter + slider = ?
cooter + Red eared slider = ?
cooter + Painted = ?
Answers:
Turtles + you = bad idea
bad idea
dont do it its going to be bad and and if u can do that then the babies will have problems
j
Red eared sliders + map = ?
Red eared sliders + cooter = ?
Red eared sliders + slider = ?
Painted + Red eared sliders = ?
Painted + Cooter = ?
Painted + map = ?
Painted + slider = ?
map + Cooter = ?
map + red eared slider = ?
map + painted = ?
map + slider = ?
slider + map = ?
slider + cooter = ?
slider + Red eared slider = ?
slider + Painted = ?
cooter + map = ?
cooter + slider = ?
cooter + Red eared slider = ?
cooter + Painted = ?
Answers:
Turtles + you = bad idea
bad idea
dont do it its going to be bad and and if u can do that then the babies will have problems
j
Cricket Food??
I have some crickets that im going to feed to my leopard geckos what kind of food is good for crikets that any one can fined in a normal household?
Answers:
Oranges, apples, potatoes
lettuce or cabbage
You can buy a kind of food for them.
Apples are good, but they must be peeled, the skin contains something that can kill them.
I feed my crickets a mixture of rolled oats, wheat germ, crushed dog food, wheat bran, and rice baby food. I also keep some veggies or fruit in the container at all times for moisture. Its important to gut load your crickets well before feeding them to your lizard.
You can feed them just about any fruit basically. But you also need to give them water. You can put a moist napkin for a water supply. But I would prefer (like I do) cricket food called Flucker's Cricket Diet.It gut loads them (feeds them) for the geckos, and it provides them water WITHOUT drowning so usually they'll last longer. You can buy the food at almost any pet store for less than $5.
Good Luck
they love apples
I keep crickets for my gecko. I feed them Cricket Water and Cricket food that I get at PetSmart, but also any fruit and vegitable except for peppers and onions. They really seem to like apple slices, lettuce, spinach, cucumber and potatoes. Make sure to change the food alot and ifyou don't offer Cricket Water (its a gel) you can give them high moisture foods or a wet paper towel. They also like placed to hide, I use a half of an egg carton. You should also dust them with calcium and vitamins just before you feed them to your gecko. Those two things you'll have to buy from a pet supply store.
Ah the cricket questions. Just recently went through this whole thing myself.
What I find works best are carrots and peeled potatoes. You can leave them in there at a max of 2 days. (i clean my cricket cage every two days, so this works out perfectly) Whole grains and other such things are good too. I crush up different kinds of cereals and scatter the crumbs all over the cage. Don't use watery fruits like strawberries and raspberries, as they mold quickly.
Don't put anything in there that can get the crickets moist! If they get wet diseases spread through the tank like wildfire. I lost about fivehundred over a week (being the cricket amateaur that I was) ^^ Pet stores sell little water "pillows" that you let soak for a minute. They expand with water and you just place them in the cage. Much easier than trying to keep a paper towle moist. The other great thing: you can reuse them 3 or 4 times! Whoot whoot! ^o^
Lettuce, carrots, cabbage, tomatoes, stuff like that. You can also feed them commercial products.
Answers:
Oranges, apples, potatoes
lettuce or cabbage
You can buy a kind of food for them.
Apples are good, but they must be peeled, the skin contains something that can kill them.
I feed my crickets a mixture of rolled oats, wheat germ, crushed dog food, wheat bran, and rice baby food. I also keep some veggies or fruit in the container at all times for moisture. Its important to gut load your crickets well before feeding them to your lizard.
You can feed them just about any fruit basically. But you also need to give them water. You can put a moist napkin for a water supply. But I would prefer (like I do) cricket food called Flucker's Cricket Diet.It gut loads them (feeds them) for the geckos, and it provides them water WITHOUT drowning so usually they'll last longer. You can buy the food at almost any pet store for less than $5.
Good Luck
they love apples
I keep crickets for my gecko. I feed them Cricket Water and Cricket food that I get at PetSmart, but also any fruit and vegitable except for peppers and onions. They really seem to like apple slices, lettuce, spinach, cucumber and potatoes. Make sure to change the food alot and ifyou don't offer Cricket Water (its a gel) you can give them high moisture foods or a wet paper towel. They also like placed to hide, I use a half of an egg carton. You should also dust them with calcium and vitamins just before you feed them to your gecko. Those two things you'll have to buy from a pet supply store.
Ah the cricket questions. Just recently went through this whole thing myself.
What I find works best are carrots and peeled potatoes. You can leave them in there at a max of 2 days. (i clean my cricket cage every two days, so this works out perfectly) Whole grains and other such things are good too. I crush up different kinds of cereals and scatter the crumbs all over the cage. Don't use watery fruits like strawberries and raspberries, as they mold quickly.
Don't put anything in there that can get the crickets moist! If they get wet diseases spread through the tank like wildfire. I lost about fivehundred over a week (being the cricket amateaur that I was) ^^ Pet stores sell little water "pillows" that you let soak for a minute. They expand with water and you just place them in the cage. Much easier than trying to keep a paper towle moist. The other great thing: you can reuse them 3 or 4 times! Whoot whoot! ^o^
Lettuce, carrots, cabbage, tomatoes, stuff like that. You can also feed them commercial products.
Crested Geckos??
are crested Geckos nice?,are they easy to handle? how is thair behavior? do they bite alot? do they get mad easy?
Answers:
they're very nice and docile. and instead of eating insects they usually eat a mixture of baby food and a calcium supplement. but first, read a book on them.
They arent the most sturdy of all pets but theyre really cool...I wouldnt recomend a baby one though because they are very fragile and they die easily!
They're one of the more easier geckos. I'm gonna get one pretty soon. They should take handling well but they can be fast. They usually won't bite you because by that point they probably would drop their tails if they're getting that stressed. They usually won't get mad unless they have WAY to much handling. You can buy them from anywhere in the $35-55 range as juveniles (babys). They prefer a tank that is more tall than wide though. They arn't like Tokay geckos who are one of the more aggresive speices of gecko. They are easy to care for, lots of fun, and they make great pets.
Good Luck
they're awesome! they just sit their on your hand, they're really soft and fragile though so be careful especialy if its a baby! they dont bite at all. they're very calm and slow moving. but make sure you have all the things you need before you get him. the right lighting, the right bedding, the right temperature etc.. that stuff you can find out from the pet store.
yes they r very nice but they r hard to handle they jump alot an leep in the air an climb up walls quite hard to look after but no my one has neva bitten me an i dnt fink any do they r docile creatures they r nocturnal an bit borin it would be best to handle in the darkish if u wanted to handle it because in the light can hert itz eyes quite expenceive tho i have to admit if u want the truth always active in the night also wen u feed him to prevent the crricets biytin him/her i feed myn in a little container so u can watch him eatin an take him out wen he haz fineshed because cricetes left in the vivarium may byte him/her
Answers:
they're very nice and docile. and instead of eating insects they usually eat a mixture of baby food and a calcium supplement. but first, read a book on them.
They arent the most sturdy of all pets but theyre really cool...I wouldnt recomend a baby one though because they are very fragile and they die easily!
They're one of the more easier geckos. I'm gonna get one pretty soon. They should take handling well but they can be fast. They usually won't bite you because by that point they probably would drop their tails if they're getting that stressed. They usually won't get mad unless they have WAY to much handling. You can buy them from anywhere in the $35-55 range as juveniles (babys). They prefer a tank that is more tall than wide though. They arn't like Tokay geckos who are one of the more aggresive speices of gecko. They are easy to care for, lots of fun, and they make great pets.
Good Luck
they're awesome! they just sit their on your hand, they're really soft and fragile though so be careful especialy if its a baby! they dont bite at all. they're very calm and slow moving. but make sure you have all the things you need before you get him. the right lighting, the right bedding, the right temperature etc.. that stuff you can find out from the pet store.
yes they r very nice but they r hard to handle they jump alot an leep in the air an climb up walls quite hard to look after but no my one has neva bitten me an i dnt fink any do they r docile creatures they r nocturnal an bit borin it would be best to handle in the darkish if u wanted to handle it because in the light can hert itz eyes quite expenceive tho i have to admit if u want the truth always active in the night also wen u feed him to prevent the crricets biytin him/her i feed myn in a little container so u can watch him eatin an take him out wen he haz fineshed because cricetes left in the vivarium may byte him/her
Crested Geckos??
Does any one no the basic setup for a crested gecko??
Answers:
http://www.kingsnake.com/rockymountain/r...
http://www.crestedlady.com/crestedcare.h...
http://www.pangeareptile.com/index.htm...
Crested Geckos have what we call "sticky toes"
They are strictly arboreal animals, so most important is height in the enclosure. Bark on the ground, some braches, vines for hiding, and make sure your humidity stays fairly high. Mist it at least once a day, they will often drink the water right off the walls. They are very fast animals, so be ready to catch it when you open the tank, you never know when they'll want to jump out.
Hope this helps...
Answers:
http://www.kingsnake.com/rockymountain/r...
http://www.crestedlady.com/crestedcare.h...
http://www.pangeareptile.com/index.htm...
Crested Geckos have what we call "sticky toes"
They are strictly arboreal animals, so most important is height in the enclosure. Bark on the ground, some braches, vines for hiding, and make sure your humidity stays fairly high. Mist it at least once a day, they will often drink the water right off the walls. They are very fast animals, so be ready to catch it when you open the tank, you never know when they'll want to jump out.
Hope this helps...
Crested geckos?
Does anyone know of any sites where i can purchase baby crested geckos and what is easier for a beginer babys or juviniles.
Answers:
juveniles are better for beginners because they are very fragile as babies. I would recommend getting one at a pet store or find a local breader. I have had bad experiences with shipping.
Answers:
juveniles are better for beginners because they are very fragile as babies. I would recommend getting one at a pet store or find a local breader. I have had bad experiences with shipping.
Crested geckos?
Does anyone know of any sites where i can purchase baby crested geckos and what is easier for a beginer babys or juviniles.
Do they like 2 b handled
Answers:
I started out with babies so they could get to know me. But I also rescued one from a Petco that had ripped of her tail, and she has become very sweet. First, they need care but they are not hard to care for. They need at least 20 gallons each, and a tall terrarium. I use those 40 gallon breeders with sliding door, turned on its side it's nice and tall. However, if you get a baby it's better to start with a smaller container so they don't get overwhelmed or have trouble finding their food.
They eat a crested gecko diet you can purchase from petstores or online. They can also eat some crickets dusted with calcium, or certain fruits or sugarfree organic babyfoods also with calcium -- they get sick if they don't get enough calcium so the special diet is a good way to ensure it. They also need humidity, so mist them twice a day. They need room temps, so don't get a heat lamp. Give them a ton of stuff to climb on or their tails can be damaged. give them water dish just in case- but not big enough to drown in.
Their tails come off easily and don't grow back, so be very gentle. They get used to you with time, but never stress them or chase them around, and by no means pick them up by their tail. If they lose it they will be fine as long as it heals OK, but it is nice for them to have to help with climbing and jumping.
Anyway, I like to see mine in person before I purchase, you can rescue one from a petco or petsmart, or find a local reptile dealer. There are a variety of good dealers online also. Good luck!
A beginner should never try to start with a hatchling lizard; they are too delicate. I would choose a juvenile or sub-adult. Also, Crested geckos are delicate and have very specific habitat needs, they are not the best lizard to start with at all. Most of them do not like being handled; I've heard of some that do but for the most part they're very tempermental and will squirm and bite to get away from you. I would suggest you try a leopard gecko, fat-tailed gecko, or bearded dragon as your first lizard, and move up to Crested's when you have more experience. Lastly, you don't want to order reptiles online and have them shipped, it's not always safe and the reptiles can easily die during the process. Find a local breeder or reptile expo in your area and purchase them that way.
I Have never had one but a beginner needs to start with an adult that can be hand fed so then it will be used to handling www.lllreptiles.com Is the perfect place for reptiles
check out this site
they have them all the time
You will probably want a juvenile. Cresties usually don't mind being handled, but you have to watch for jumping, as their suicide specialists. Crested Geckos make ideal starter geckos, as they subsist at room temperature, and don't feed exclusively on insects. This makes them easy and affordable to maintain, and as long as you mist their enclosure a couple of times a day, they usually do fine.
Do they like 2 b handled
Answers:
I started out with babies so they could get to know me. But I also rescued one from a Petco that had ripped of her tail, and she has become very sweet. First, they need care but they are not hard to care for. They need at least 20 gallons each, and a tall terrarium. I use those 40 gallon breeders with sliding door, turned on its side it's nice and tall. However, if you get a baby it's better to start with a smaller container so they don't get overwhelmed or have trouble finding their food.
They eat a crested gecko diet you can purchase from petstores or online. They can also eat some crickets dusted with calcium, or certain fruits or sugarfree organic babyfoods also with calcium -- they get sick if they don't get enough calcium so the special diet is a good way to ensure it. They also need humidity, so mist them twice a day. They need room temps, so don't get a heat lamp. Give them a ton of stuff to climb on or their tails can be damaged. give them water dish just in case- but not big enough to drown in.
Their tails come off easily and don't grow back, so be very gentle. They get used to you with time, but never stress them or chase them around, and by no means pick them up by their tail. If they lose it they will be fine as long as it heals OK, but it is nice for them to have to help with climbing and jumping.
Anyway, I like to see mine in person before I purchase, you can rescue one from a petco or petsmart, or find a local reptile dealer. There are a variety of good dealers online also. Good luck!
A beginner should never try to start with a hatchling lizard; they are too delicate. I would choose a juvenile or sub-adult. Also, Crested geckos are delicate and have very specific habitat needs, they are not the best lizard to start with at all. Most of them do not like being handled; I've heard of some that do but for the most part they're very tempermental and will squirm and bite to get away from you. I would suggest you try a leopard gecko, fat-tailed gecko, or bearded dragon as your first lizard, and move up to Crested's when you have more experience. Lastly, you don't want to order reptiles online and have them shipped, it's not always safe and the reptiles can easily die during the process. Find a local breeder or reptile expo in your area and purchase them that way.
I Have never had one but a beginner needs to start with an adult that can be hand fed so then it will be used to handling www.lllreptiles.com Is the perfect place for reptiles
check out this site
they have them all the time
You will probably want a juvenile. Cresties usually don't mind being handled, but you have to watch for jumping, as their suicide specialists. Crested Geckos make ideal starter geckos, as they subsist at room temperature, and don't feed exclusively on insects. This makes them easy and affordable to maintain, and as long as you mist their enclosure a couple of times a day, they usually do fine.
Crested geckos can i keep 2 pairs of breeding crested geckos in the same enclosure?
they are all the same size. one of the pairs are a little older than the other pair
Answers:
With Geckos, you are not advised to have two males in the same cage ever as they might hurt each other or kill the other one.
If your cage is big enough, and I'm talking 55 gallons or bigger. Males are aggressive towards each other, but you can keep multiple females in with one breeding male.
No that would not be a good move on your part.
1. because you cant keep 2 guys in the same tank
2. because if you do then one of the geckos might get hurt.
Answers:
With Geckos, you are not advised to have two males in the same cage ever as they might hurt each other or kill the other one.
If your cage is big enough, and I'm talking 55 gallons or bigger. Males are aggressive towards each other, but you can keep multiple females in with one breeding male.
No that would not be a good move on your part.
1. because you cant keep 2 guys in the same tank
2. because if you do then one of the geckos might get hurt.
CRESTED GECKO?
WHAT SHOULD I FEED HIM??
wHATS THE BEST TO FEED HIM??
Answers:
Cresties will typically eat fruit and insects in the wild. You can feed them crickets and soft fruit such as banana or the different fruits from baby food jars.
A much better diet choice, however, is a product called CGD or Crested Gecko Diet. It comes in powder form and when mixed with water will supply all required nutrients. You can purchase small bottles at most reptile supplied pet stores or get larger bags online.
Crested geckos usually do best on a diet that is mostly crickets an occasionally some meal worms and wax worms. You'll want to feed only live food as geckos will ignore food that isn't moving.
Bring the crickets home, put them in a separate cage, and feed them slices of orange. They will get both food and liquid from the orange and will take in the calcium which will give your gecko a boost also.
Don't listen to the person who says crickets and mealworms! Mealworms WILL kill your gecko. He is thinking LEOPARD geckos.
Here is what cresties eat: primarily fruit! You can purchase a crested gecko diet at any pet store and mix it with water. They will also eat some crickets that must be dusted with calcium, butI would not make that their entire diet. And you can sometimes add sugarless babyfood with calcium as a treat. No mealworms! They're too hard
Baby foods no citrus
wHATS THE BEST TO FEED HIM??
Answers:
Cresties will typically eat fruit and insects in the wild. You can feed them crickets and soft fruit such as banana or the different fruits from baby food jars.
A much better diet choice, however, is a product called CGD or Crested Gecko Diet. It comes in powder form and when mixed with water will supply all required nutrients. You can purchase small bottles at most reptile supplied pet stores or get larger bags online.
Crested geckos usually do best on a diet that is mostly crickets an occasionally some meal worms and wax worms. You'll want to feed only live food as geckos will ignore food that isn't moving.
Bring the crickets home, put them in a separate cage, and feed them slices of orange. They will get both food and liquid from the orange and will take in the calcium which will give your gecko a boost also.
Don't listen to the person who says crickets and mealworms! Mealworms WILL kill your gecko. He is thinking LEOPARD geckos.
Here is what cresties eat: primarily fruit! You can purchase a crested gecko diet at any pet store and mix it with water. They will also eat some crickets that must be dusted with calcium, butI would not make that their entire diet. And you can sometimes add sugarless babyfood with calcium as a treat. No mealworms! They're too hard
Baby foods no citrus
Crested gecko breeding?
do you need any sort of a license or anything to be able to breed crested geckos and maybe sell them to a reptile store I know?
Answers:
No, no license is required to breed cresteds, as long as you do it on the hobby level. Once it becomes your main source of income, you'll need to get a Business License.
I would add that you may want to find a source to sell first, as most pet stores won't buy from local hobbyists. There are lots of wholesalers who will buy all you have, but they wan't pay anything near their value.
You should pick his answer as it's clearly more to the point! ;)
Answers:
No, no license is required to breed cresteds, as long as you do it on the hobby level. Once it becomes your main source of income, you'll need to get a Business License.
I would add that you may want to find a source to sell first, as most pet stores won't buy from local hobbyists. There are lots of wholesalers who will buy all you have, but they wan't pay anything near their value.
You should pick his answer as it's clearly more to the point! ;)
Creative Box Turtle housing.?
I am the proud owner of a couple dogs, a cat and a Three Toed Box Turtle. I dearly love Mr Chang and want to build him a nice home. I am considering building a home big enough to add another turtle or two.
Here's my problem... I want to keep him in the living area of our home and I want to make the living area a nicely decoated space. How to integrate a nice turtle house with a nice decor?
I found a design online a long time ago. the man converted a beautiful wood chest into a nice turtle home and used it as a coffee table. I cannot find the design anymore.
Does anyone have any ideas on how/ what can be converted into a beautiful turtle home that will look nice in my home? Links to plans, pics etc would be very helpful.
Answers:
I had the same delimma when building a home for my russian tortoise. I tried to create a home that was functional and nice to look at...I mean, if my tort lives a full life I'm going to have to see it's home MY entire life right.here's what I came up with =)
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/d...
Here are a couple of interior shots...
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/d...
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/d...
My friends turned a bookcase into a turtle enclosure. They took out the shelves and put it on its side so the open side was facing out. They attached a screen with hinges and it looks really good.
I like the idea of a coffee table too.
Here's my problem... I want to keep him in the living area of our home and I want to make the living area a nicely decoated space. How to integrate a nice turtle house with a nice decor?
I found a design online a long time ago. the man converted a beautiful wood chest into a nice turtle home and used it as a coffee table. I cannot find the design anymore.
Does anyone have any ideas on how/ what can be converted into a beautiful turtle home that will look nice in my home? Links to plans, pics etc would be very helpful.
Answers:
I had the same delimma when building a home for my russian tortoise. I tried to create a home that was functional and nice to look at...I mean, if my tort lives a full life I'm going to have to see it's home MY entire life right.here's what I came up with =)
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/d...
Here are a couple of interior shots...
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/d...
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/d...
My friends turned a bookcase into a turtle enclosure. They took out the shelves and put it on its side so the open side was facing out. They attached a screen with hinges and it looks really good.
I like the idea of a coffee table too.
Cow skull in king snake vivarium??
i was wondering if this could be used as a hiding place for a snake, since it is hollow in the eyes/brain area, sanitized of course. also i think it would be a great decoration, but i was just curious if there are any problems that may occur
Answers:
It would be great and would look good in the aquarium as well! I've seen it done before and it really adds to the "badass" look of the snake.
As long as you're sure it's sanitized. I'd suggest actually baking it at about 450 degrees for 15 minutes in the oven.
the problem with anything having a hole is that snakes go in the hole and often out the hole getting their body stuck in the hole. most commercial snake homes are designed to lift off the snake rather than offer a hole (or two) that a snake can get himself stuck in.
you may find it difficult to cut off your snake should he get stuck in it
I see no problem with this as long as it is sanitized...
Make sure it's anti- septic %26 let 'er rip. I've raised snakes for years %26 have NEVER had one get "stuck" in a hole!
No it should be fine
Answers:
It would be great and would look good in the aquarium as well! I've seen it done before and it really adds to the "badass" look of the snake.
As long as you're sure it's sanitized. I'd suggest actually baking it at about 450 degrees for 15 minutes in the oven.
the problem with anything having a hole is that snakes go in the hole and often out the hole getting their body stuck in the hole. most commercial snake homes are designed to lift off the snake rather than offer a hole (or two) that a snake can get himself stuck in.
you may find it difficult to cut off your snake should he get stuck in it
I see no problem with this as long as it is sanitized...
Make sure it's anti- septic %26 let 'er rip. I've raised snakes for years %26 have NEVER had one get "stuck" in a hole!
No it should be fine
Could you name some species of chameleon that are found in the pet trade?
im not talking about exotics, just regular chameleons you can find a petsmart or anyother petstore
the only species that i know they sell are veiled and jackson's, and ive always wanted a chameleon but i would need to know more about them before then, so im trying to educate myself now
Answers:
Jacksons, Veiled, Dwarf, Panther, Fischers, Rudis, can all be found at petco, or ordered there depending on stores availability.
I added links below in the sources that shows pictures and short descriptions.
However, here is some friendly advice from a former petco employee, if you started learning about chameleons then you know they stress VERY easily. I would advise ordering one instead of buying one that is already in the store!!
The reasoning behind this is this, the shipping of a chameleon is very stressful, however if they are in the store then they've also had to endure the stress of small children banging their fists on the glass screaming MOMMY LOOK AT THE PURTY LIZARD!! And dogs barking and close confined, illy equipped cages.
All species of chameleons are exotic. There are no chameleon species found in the United States. That being said, the previous post listed several species that are available commercially.
I would recommend against keeping one as a pet. They are very delicate animals that require high maintenance to keep healthy and alive, including proper heat and humidity, proper habitat, a variety of live prey items, and quiet. They stress very easily and are often infested with various parasites that can quickly debilitate them if they aren't kept in optimum conditions (unfortunately, almost all of the chameleons in the pet trade are still wild caught).
If you insist on keeping one as a pet, research thoroughly. Read everything you can find on their care and husbandry and realize that it will take a lot of initial work to keep your pet alive. Be prepared and be responsible or you'll end up spending several hundred dollars on a lizard that will die in two months.
That being said, Jackson's and Panther chameleons are among the hardier of the family.
http://www.junglewalk.com/info/chameleon...
http://www.flchams.com/
http://www.chameleonsdish.com/index.html...
Many chameleons are now bred in captivity. Mine came from a local breeder. You want to really educated yourself, as they are a bit fragile compared to some other reptiles. Large airy cages, lots of places to hide and climb, good humidity, heat lamp, UVB source, a variety of insects, etc. Not good if you want a pet to hold, but very interesting to care for. I bought mine as a tiny baby only a couple of inches long and now he is huge!
the only species that i know they sell are veiled and jackson's, and ive always wanted a chameleon but i would need to know more about them before then, so im trying to educate myself now
Answers:
Jacksons, Veiled, Dwarf, Panther, Fischers, Rudis, can all be found at petco, or ordered there depending on stores availability.
I added links below in the sources that shows pictures and short descriptions.
However, here is some friendly advice from a former petco employee, if you started learning about chameleons then you know they stress VERY easily. I would advise ordering one instead of buying one that is already in the store!!
The reasoning behind this is this, the shipping of a chameleon is very stressful, however if they are in the store then they've also had to endure the stress of small children banging their fists on the glass screaming MOMMY LOOK AT THE PURTY LIZARD!! And dogs barking and close confined, illy equipped cages.
All species of chameleons are exotic. There are no chameleon species found in the United States. That being said, the previous post listed several species that are available commercially.
I would recommend against keeping one as a pet. They are very delicate animals that require high maintenance to keep healthy and alive, including proper heat and humidity, proper habitat, a variety of live prey items, and quiet. They stress very easily and are often infested with various parasites that can quickly debilitate them if they aren't kept in optimum conditions (unfortunately, almost all of the chameleons in the pet trade are still wild caught).
If you insist on keeping one as a pet, research thoroughly. Read everything you can find on their care and husbandry and realize that it will take a lot of initial work to keep your pet alive. Be prepared and be responsible or you'll end up spending several hundred dollars on a lizard that will die in two months.
That being said, Jackson's and Panther chameleons are among the hardier of the family.
http://www.junglewalk.com/info/chameleon...
http://www.flchams.com/
http://www.chameleonsdish.com/index.html...
Many chameleons are now bred in captivity. Mine came from a local breeder. You want to really educated yourself, as they are a bit fragile compared to some other reptiles. Large airy cages, lots of places to hide and climb, good humidity, heat lamp, UVB source, a variety of insects, etc. Not good if you want a pet to hold, but very interesting to care for. I bought mine as a tiny baby only a couple of inches long and now he is huge!
Could you feed frogs to a king snake?
i was wondering if store bought frogs, tree frogs or fire belly, would be able to be fed to a snake. i dont remeber if fire bellies are poisonis or not, and i seen a vid. on youtube.com of a pacman frog eating a white's tree frog (i think it was a white's) and i was curious if these frogs, or any others, could be fed to a snake since they like a varied diet.
Answers:
Yes they can eat frogs. However, frogs, toads and lizards all carry huge amounts of parasites and you would end up having to treat the snake for those. Feed commercially grown frozen/thawed mice. They are safer and will keep your snake healthy.
I tried to feed my boa a toad before, but he wouldn't eat it, I would just suggest feeding him or her rats, or mice depending on the size. I have also heard that snakes like gerbils a lot.
Stick to rats and mice. They have all the nutritional value needed for a snake.
Gerbils, rabbits, etc cause a fatty liver.
Frogs, I don't know exactly what problems or nutritional value they have, but they certainly aren't part of a King Snake's normal diet.
Try not to mix things up for your poor boy.
yes of course... even a garter or a rattle snake! They eat all sorts of things!! Even squirrels!
NOOO!! sorry but i have frogs!! and the tree frogs cost like 20 bucks where i live! thats like feeding buying a dog and feeding it to your snakes! no offense, but don't do that!! stick with it's normal foood
Answers:
Yes they can eat frogs. However, frogs, toads and lizards all carry huge amounts of parasites and you would end up having to treat the snake for those. Feed commercially grown frozen/thawed mice. They are safer and will keep your snake healthy.
I tried to feed my boa a toad before, but he wouldn't eat it, I would just suggest feeding him or her rats, or mice depending on the size. I have also heard that snakes like gerbils a lot.
Stick to rats and mice. They have all the nutritional value needed for a snake.
Gerbils, rabbits, etc cause a fatty liver.
Frogs, I don't know exactly what problems or nutritional value they have, but they certainly aren't part of a King Snake's normal diet.
Try not to mix things up for your poor boy.
yes of course... even a garter or a rattle snake! They eat all sorts of things!! Even squirrels!
NOOO!! sorry but i have frogs!! and the tree frogs cost like 20 bucks where i live! thats like feeding buying a dog and feeding it to your snakes! no offense, but don't do that!! stick with it's normal foood
Could my tortoise be blind?
I have two spur-thighed tortoises that I have had for a year and a half. I've had them since they were babies. I am afraid my youngest may be blind or partially blind. Although in her (talullah) pen she is very active, she constatnly hits the wall or the other tortoise (rosalie). When I take her outside or let them roam in the house (supervised of course) Talullah will not move except for a step or two. She seems unable to see when we place food in front of her, only eating it if we hit it against her mouth. If she hears me drop food, she kind of roots around like a baby looking for it and depending on what i'm feeding her can make quite a mess all over her face. She startles easy when i pet her, although she is the more loveable of the two and has recently she began using her nose to smell things and then bump them with her head like her food even my leg. She tries to eat it then jumps back if I move and she realizes its me. Any suggestions would be appriciated.
Answers:
maybe she just likes to bump her head..check with a tortoise specialist and see, love her anyway. :-) being blind isn't the end of the world,
I'm not a tortoise expert, but I would suggest you give your exotic vet a call and maybe bring your tortie in for a check up. It could be that she indeed is blind, but she will learn to adapt as will you.
This is typical behavior for a shy or stressed tortoise. A blind tortoise would usually have visibly unusual-looking eyes (usually gummed closed or pale blue).
"Hears me..." is an interesting phrase- tortoises are nearly deaf- she can feel vibration, but not hear most noises.
One thing I note is that you move them a lot. Tortoises are VERY neophobic- they dislike new things, being handled, new habitats, new foods, etc. They should have a home that fits all of their needs- and few tortoises do well roaming freely in a human house.
You do not describe the diet, housing, etc. but you may want to check at http://www.tortoisetrust.org for good care info.
Just out of curiosity- are these African Spurred Tortoises (Geochelone sulcata) or Greek Spur-thighed Tortoises (Testudo graeca)? The term 'spur-thighed' is often mistakenly used for Sulcatas and the cares for the two are very different.
Answers:
maybe she just likes to bump her head..check with a tortoise specialist and see, love her anyway. :-) being blind isn't the end of the world,
I'm not a tortoise expert, but I would suggest you give your exotic vet a call and maybe bring your tortie in for a check up. It could be that she indeed is blind, but she will learn to adapt as will you.
This is typical behavior for a shy or stressed tortoise. A blind tortoise would usually have visibly unusual-looking eyes (usually gummed closed or pale blue).
"Hears me..." is an interesting phrase- tortoises are nearly deaf- she can feel vibration, but not hear most noises.
One thing I note is that you move them a lot. Tortoises are VERY neophobic- they dislike new things, being handled, new habitats, new foods, etc. They should have a home that fits all of their needs- and few tortoises do well roaming freely in a human house.
You do not describe the diet, housing, etc. but you may want to check at http://www.tortoisetrust.org for good care info.
Just out of curiosity- are these African Spurred Tortoises (Geochelone sulcata) or Greek Spur-thighed Tortoises (Testudo graeca)? The term 'spur-thighed' is often mistakenly used for Sulcatas and the cares for the two are very different.
Could a Texas horned lizard, a flying gecko, and an armadillo lizard live together in the same cage?
All three of the lizards are the same size, so I was wondering if I got the three of them, if they could live together.
Answers:
Ohhhh boy! You making all the wrong decisions. I don't know where to start. My primary area of research/husbandry is with Phrynosoma ( Horned Lizards ), and the picture on my avatar is of a Texas Horned Lizard. I am a member of the Horned Lizard Conservation Society, and run a reptile rescue.
First, the Texas Horned Lizard is protected in every state where it is native except Az., but Az. still requires a hunting permit. It is unlawful to possess, transport, buy, or sell; a Texas Horned Lizard without permit. Only THLs legally obtained from Az., or legally captive bred through commercial propagation permits can be bought or sold to the public...and not many people actually have those permits or can prove the legal origin of the lizard. I suggest you check that out before buying, as it is more likely than not that any THL you find on the market, is on the market ILLEGALLY.
Next, the Texas Horned Lizard ( or any other Horned Lizard )does not make a good pet for anyone without experience, and by that I mean A LOT of experience ( I have 20 years of herp experience ). Of the 14 recognized species in North America, the THL is one of the hardest to keep alive in captivity. They are highly prone to stress and this will kill them without a proper habitat and other conditions such as diet being properly met. It sounds like you haven't done enough research to have such as proper habitat, and don't have the experience.
Horned Lizards also primarily eat harvester ants as a large percentage of their diet. They are obligate ant eaters in the wild, and need harvester ants to be healthy. There are too many biological reasons for this that I won't go into detail here, but it suffices to say that you will have to mail order large quantities of harvester ants in order to feed a Horned Lizard. Typically they run about $20 per 1000 ants, and the typical HL can eat 1000 ants in one week, so think about that. There is a reason that not many people have Horned Lizards and that they are pretty much left to the experts and those with money. That's because they are expensive to feed, and they have very high mortality rates in captivity. More than 90% of all Horned Lizards taken into captivity will die in inexperienced hands. They are closing in on the brink of extinction, and I would prefer if you left this genus of lizard to the experts to be honest.
First general rule of reptile keeping is that you don't keep different species ( or different GENUS for god's sake ) together without a good deal of experience, an outdoor habitat, and being damn sure they are compatable, and certified healthy and free of parasites. The lizards you are talking about keeping together don't even live in the same parts of the world together! Jeez!
The Armadillo and THL have similar climate preferences, but are from different continents. The Flying Gecko is from jungle habitat and could never live in the climates the other prefers.
ALL of these lizards would HIGHLY STRESS if you placed them together. The Armadillo and THL are very shy and will always be scared of one another. The Armadillo will stay curled up in a ball, and the THL will probably be constantly climbing the walls trying to get out and eventually break it's tail. The gecko would be running around stressing and somebody would end up getting a respiratory infection; either from too little or too much humidity!
Please...until you get some real experience...try sticking to an easy species. One species. And just one of that species. Leopard and some other geckos make good herps for beginners, as well as Anoles, or a Cornsnake. I guarantee you, based on your question, I have confiscated Horned Lizards from people who had more experience than you do. That's just the facts, sorry, but I have to say it because I care about herps and I'm a conservationist and rescuer.
My pages:
http://freewebs.com/wichitafallsreptiler...
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/horne...
HLCS page:
http://hornedlizards.org
NO.
You cannot mix species of reptiles, and you really shouldn't keep any reptiles together unless they are breeding pairs. Reptiles are solitary creatures and will fight for food and territory. One of the three would kill off the others in no time. Not to mention they have different habitat and temperature requirements, and you probably don't have a cage large enough to comfortably accomodate them. So definitely no. It would be stressful and they'd probably fight.
Yes, but not for very long. War will break out soon. Don't do that.
dont do it just buy 3 20 gallon aquarium
Yes if they don't try to eat each other.
Answers:
Ohhhh boy! You making all the wrong decisions. I don't know where to start. My primary area of research/husbandry is with Phrynosoma ( Horned Lizards ), and the picture on my avatar is of a Texas Horned Lizard. I am a member of the Horned Lizard Conservation Society, and run a reptile rescue.
First, the Texas Horned Lizard is protected in every state where it is native except Az., but Az. still requires a hunting permit. It is unlawful to possess, transport, buy, or sell; a Texas Horned Lizard without permit. Only THLs legally obtained from Az., or legally captive bred through commercial propagation permits can be bought or sold to the public...and not many people actually have those permits or can prove the legal origin of the lizard. I suggest you check that out before buying, as it is more likely than not that any THL you find on the market, is on the market ILLEGALLY.
Next, the Texas Horned Lizard ( or any other Horned Lizard )does not make a good pet for anyone without experience, and by that I mean A LOT of experience ( I have 20 years of herp experience ). Of the 14 recognized species in North America, the THL is one of the hardest to keep alive in captivity. They are highly prone to stress and this will kill them without a proper habitat and other conditions such as diet being properly met. It sounds like you haven't done enough research to have such as proper habitat, and don't have the experience.
Horned Lizards also primarily eat harvester ants as a large percentage of their diet. They are obligate ant eaters in the wild, and need harvester ants to be healthy. There are too many biological reasons for this that I won't go into detail here, but it suffices to say that you will have to mail order large quantities of harvester ants in order to feed a Horned Lizard. Typically they run about $20 per 1000 ants, and the typical HL can eat 1000 ants in one week, so think about that. There is a reason that not many people have Horned Lizards and that they are pretty much left to the experts and those with money. That's because they are expensive to feed, and they have very high mortality rates in captivity. More than 90% of all Horned Lizards taken into captivity will die in inexperienced hands. They are closing in on the brink of extinction, and I would prefer if you left this genus of lizard to the experts to be honest.
First general rule of reptile keeping is that you don't keep different species ( or different GENUS for god's sake ) together without a good deal of experience, an outdoor habitat, and being damn sure they are compatable, and certified healthy and free of parasites. The lizards you are talking about keeping together don't even live in the same parts of the world together! Jeez!
The Armadillo and THL have similar climate preferences, but are from different continents. The Flying Gecko is from jungle habitat and could never live in the climates the other prefers.
ALL of these lizards would HIGHLY STRESS if you placed them together. The Armadillo and THL are very shy and will always be scared of one another. The Armadillo will stay curled up in a ball, and the THL will probably be constantly climbing the walls trying to get out and eventually break it's tail. The gecko would be running around stressing and somebody would end up getting a respiratory infection; either from too little or too much humidity!
Please...until you get some real experience...try sticking to an easy species. One species. And just one of that species. Leopard and some other geckos make good herps for beginners, as well as Anoles, or a Cornsnake. I guarantee you, based on your question, I have confiscated Horned Lizards from people who had more experience than you do. That's just the facts, sorry, but I have to say it because I care about herps and I'm a conservationist and rescuer.
My pages:
http://freewebs.com/wichitafallsreptiler...
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/horne...
HLCS page:
http://hornedlizards.org
NO.
You cannot mix species of reptiles, and you really shouldn't keep any reptiles together unless they are breeding pairs. Reptiles are solitary creatures and will fight for food and territory. One of the three would kill off the others in no time. Not to mention they have different habitat and temperature requirements, and you probably don't have a cage large enough to comfortably accomodate them. So definitely no. It would be stressful and they'd probably fight.
Yes, but not for very long. War will break out soon. Don't do that.
dont do it just buy 3 20 gallon aquarium
Yes if they don't try to eat each other.
Could a red earslider turtle survive outside n a garage in the winter with (clean)warm water n food?
Answers:
First RES are aquatic and need an area to swim. Also they need heat lamps so unless those are provided than no way can it live happily out there. It really shouldn't be outside in the winter anyways... even if it's in a garage.
if they are in a habitat outside and you have mud and dirt at the bottom, then they'll probably dig a hole and bury themselves under to escape the cold.They go into hibernation.
I have an outdoor pond that has red earsliders in it, I leave them there all year round as they hibernate in the winter in the mud along the sides. To answer your question I wouldn't as it would not be hibernating and unless you have a heat lamp and can keep the temperature at a certain degree your turtle will probably get sick. I do have a few that do not hibernate and I bring them inside for the winter as I have a tank with a heat lamp and they are fun to watch and in the summer I put them back out in the pond.
I don't know if this helps you but I would check some sites on red earsliders like exotic pets have good infor.
i dont no but the reptile vet would ask him/her
You need enough room and water a heater you definitely need a heater (75 degrees) and food , and a UV light or any lighting you can get in its tank
in the winter i keep it in my room >%26lt;
NO... They are aquatic turtle and they always need to be in the water.
Besides why would you keep it in the garage not in the house.
Good Luck
*Krstl*
Cornsnake egg problem- urgent- help!?
i have a cornsnake that bred for the first times almost 5 months ago, and laid eggs about 2 months ago. they should be due to hatch aug. 5th. however on of the eggs did not have the leathery covering shell on its bottom side, all that is there is membrane. i have been keeping a close eye on that egg and appart from being smaller than te others eems healthy. however, the membrain where there is no shell keeps getting a small hole and it leaks fluid, but it heals withing a minute. tonight though when i went to check on it i noticed a large mass of a kind of fatty tissue has pertruded out of the egg where it usually breaks. it looks kind of like a tumor. should i be worried? with the baby hatch early? what can i do to fix this or keep it so no farther damage is done? please help!
Answers:
It is normal for two or three eggs to not delevop normally, or not hatch at all in a cluch because of the number of eggs laid or improper pre-breeding conditioning of the female. Bad shell development can be caused by mineral deficencies in the mother, improper incubation or simply a trick of genetics.
Eggs should be incubated at the proper temperature and humidity (90-100% humidity and 78潞F - 84潞F) to ensure the hatchlings don't develop birth defects. After the snakes hatch, they should not be removed from their shells. They will slit the shells and stay in them with their head hanging out for up to 24 hours as they absorb the last of the yolk.
Answers:
It is normal for two or three eggs to not delevop normally, or not hatch at all in a cluch because of the number of eggs laid or improper pre-breeding conditioning of the female. Bad shell development can be caused by mineral deficencies in the mother, improper incubation or simply a trick of genetics.
Eggs should be incubated at the proper temperature and humidity (90-100% humidity and 78潞F - 84潞F) to ensure the hatchlings don't develop birth defects. After the snakes hatch, they should not be removed from their shells. They will slit the shells and stay in them with their head hanging out for up to 24 hours as they absorb the last of the yolk.
Corn snakes. What temperature is optimum for a baby corn snake to digest its food?
I have had the snake a week and set the tank up so one side is 22- 24 degrees C and the other 27- 29 degrees C. It struck for its food well. ( two pinkies) as previously advised to feed it once a week. It is twelve weeks old. Any other advice would be welcome as this is my first snake. Also I dont intend to use it to breed so is it likely to bruminate if the tank is at a constant temperature range as I have set it up?
Answers:
those temperatures are just fine. see, the great thing about snakes, is given they have a good temp. gradient, they will take care of finding the perfect temperature within the tank. the only thing that might change with your snake is during the spring, and usually only if its a male. he may stop feeding for around 3 months. corns are not extremely variable, but this may happen, but more as he gets older. once a week is perfectly fine to feed, although if its that old i usually feed mine more wen they are that young, about every 4 days.
Your set up and temperature range sounds fine but if your warm end is thermostatically controlled you could bump it up just a couple degrees. Make sure you are not feeding directly on loose particle substrate to avoid accidental ingestion. Your baby will be shedding regularly so if you don't already have a humid hide then you should provide one. They really help avoid shed problems.
As your snake approaches maturity (1 1/2 to 2 years) then you may notice a natural slow down in appetite and activity as the days shorten. He will not technically brumate unless you expose him to cooler temperatures.
you have the optimum temperatures in your tank already. My warm spot in my tank will get up to 30 degrees in the late day, so you should have no problems at all with digesting.
The only thing I might add, is that since your baby is taking two pinkies, it should be able to feed on one larger item instead. A small fuzzy should be fine. Unless you drop the temperatures and place the snakes in a cool place, they will not brumate. I only brumate my breeders. All others are kept at normal temperatures. Males do go off feed sometimes at breeding time. Usually around the age of 1 1/2 - 2 years old.
Answers:
those temperatures are just fine. see, the great thing about snakes, is given they have a good temp. gradient, they will take care of finding the perfect temperature within the tank. the only thing that might change with your snake is during the spring, and usually only if its a male. he may stop feeding for around 3 months. corns are not extremely variable, but this may happen, but more as he gets older. once a week is perfectly fine to feed, although if its that old i usually feed mine more wen they are that young, about every 4 days.
Your set up and temperature range sounds fine but if your warm end is thermostatically controlled you could bump it up just a couple degrees. Make sure you are not feeding directly on loose particle substrate to avoid accidental ingestion. Your baby will be shedding regularly so if you don't already have a humid hide then you should provide one. They really help avoid shed problems.
As your snake approaches maturity (1 1/2 to 2 years) then you may notice a natural slow down in appetite and activity as the days shorten. He will not technically brumate unless you expose him to cooler temperatures.
you have the optimum temperatures in your tank already. My warm spot in my tank will get up to 30 degrees in the late day, so you should have no problems at all with digesting.
The only thing I might add, is that since your baby is taking two pinkies, it should be able to feed on one larger item instead. A small fuzzy should be fine. Unless you drop the temperatures and place the snakes in a cool place, they will not brumate. I only brumate my breeders. All others are kept at normal temperatures. Males do go off feed sometimes at breeding time. Usually around the age of 1 1/2 - 2 years old.
Corn snake?
how much wud all the stuff for a corn snake be not inculding vivarium/uv/cornsnake
.?
Answers:
Not including the vivarium, uv light,or the cornsnake? Well, you'd need the bedding (a bag would probably be around $7(but it'd depend on how large your vivarium is), a glass water bowl would be a nice investment ($8-ish), a "house" just a plastic snake home that pet stores sell so that the snake can be protected ($6), other than that any other types of "decoration" (logs/ rocks/ ect.) could be bought or picked up from you backyard. I'm not sure if you mean the food too b/c that could vary. All in all expect to pay around $30- $35 bucks.
Good Luck.
You can get a bag of aspen bedding for about 10 dollars, you need a bowl a few sticks for it to crawl on, a place for it to hide, food, ofcourse a tank. The cheapest setup for tank, lid, bedding, shelter, bowl, lighting, food could run you just under 100.
Cornsnakes don't require UV so you don't need that. You would need an under tank heater for around $13 depending upon the size, you can make hides from paper towel rolls cut in half, kleenex boxes or just a small pot turned upside down with a doorway in it for next to nothing. You can buy a small dish for water at the dollar store. Aspen you already know about, but if you want you can house on paper towel or newspaper, although it doesn't look as nice.
I paid around $100 for a set up, but i did make my own rock hide outs instead of paying 30 bucks each for them.
.?
Answers:
Not including the vivarium, uv light,or the cornsnake? Well, you'd need the bedding (a bag would probably be around $7(but it'd depend on how large your vivarium is), a glass water bowl would be a nice investment ($8-ish), a "house" just a plastic snake home that pet stores sell so that the snake can be protected ($6), other than that any other types of "decoration" (logs/ rocks/ ect.) could be bought or picked up from you backyard. I'm not sure if you mean the food too b/c that could vary. All in all expect to pay around $30- $35 bucks.
Good Luck.
You can get a bag of aspen bedding for about 10 dollars, you need a bowl a few sticks for it to crawl on, a place for it to hide, food, ofcourse a tank. The cheapest setup for tank, lid, bedding, shelter, bowl, lighting, food could run you just under 100.
Cornsnakes don't require UV so you don't need that. You would need an under tank heater for around $13 depending upon the size, you can make hides from paper towel rolls cut in half, kleenex boxes or just a small pot turned upside down with a doorway in it for next to nothing. You can buy a small dish for water at the dollar store. Aspen you already know about, but if you want you can house on paper towel or newspaper, although it doesn't look as nice.
I paid around $100 for a set up, but i did make my own rock hide outs instead of paying 30 bucks each for them.
Corn snake?
iv got a 22litre old fisha tank nd i want to get a corn snake dz it need a uv light..? and iv gt a underwater heater that i used for the fish wud that work nd wt else do i need n e help great..
Answers:
cornsnakes will get to be 4-5 feet long after 3 years. The smallest tank that should be used is a 25 gallon. The snake will need heat from both a uv light and an undertank heater- make sure the underwater heater is placed below the tank and not inside to prevent burning. Research cornsnakes thoroughly before bringing one home. Make sure you understand all about respiratory infections, what to feed (frozen mice preferably), how often to feed and at what temperature to keep their tank. (You will need to buy a temp. gauge from the pet store) Good luck
Yes, corn snakes requre full spectrum uva/uvb light.
Your fish heater will not work for your snake. You need a heater on the outside of the tank, one on the inside will burn your snake.
Use an under tank heater or a clamp lamp with a red or blue colored bulb in it for heat. Keep the heat on one side of the tank so the snake can move between warmer and cooler temperatues.
You can use newspaper to line the bottom of the cage.
You will need a water dish big enough for the snake to sit in.
A rock to help with shedding
A hidding spot
A small branch for climbing.
A tight fitting screen lid. Snakes are good at escaping.
Answers:
cornsnakes will get to be 4-5 feet long after 3 years. The smallest tank that should be used is a 25 gallon. The snake will need heat from both a uv light and an undertank heater- make sure the underwater heater is placed below the tank and not inside to prevent burning. Research cornsnakes thoroughly before bringing one home. Make sure you understand all about respiratory infections, what to feed (frozen mice preferably), how often to feed and at what temperature to keep their tank. (You will need to buy a temp. gauge from the pet store) Good luck
Yes, corn snakes requre full spectrum uva/uvb light.
Your fish heater will not work for your snake. You need a heater on the outside of the tank, one on the inside will burn your snake.
Use an under tank heater or a clamp lamp with a red or blue colored bulb in it for heat. Keep the heat on one side of the tank so the snake can move between warmer and cooler temperatues.
You can use newspaper to line the bottom of the cage.
You will need a water dish big enough for the snake to sit in.
A rock to help with shedding
A hidding spot
A small branch for climbing.
A tight fitting screen lid. Snakes are good at escaping.
Corn snake?
hi im goin to get a corn snake i have a 20littre old fish tank i understand that this is an ok size whilst the snake is young wat else wud i need nd hw much will it all cost together..?
Answers:
You will need a hide box.YOu can use a small cardbord box for that if not wanting to spend alot of money.A small water dish.And you can use some newspaper on the bottom of the cage because easy to clean up.Money spent on it probably 15.00 for the stuff I said.And a heat pad on the bottom of cage to keep warm.
it will cost about 250 for everything depending on how much your snake is and what you use for heating (heating pad is the best and its cheaper then a heating rock) And a 20 liter is way to small. you should buy a 25 gallon tank and that will last the snake for its whole life.
A 20 gl. tank is plenty big enough for an adult. I'm not sure if that's what you meant. Fish tanks usually are fairly tall with little floor space, which is what you want for cornsnakes. You can always turn the tank on it's side and have the sliding lid open upwards. That will give you more floor space. The under tank heater and thermostat are probably the most you'll spend besides the tank and the snake of course. As mentioned, hides can be made from anything. I use old boxes, kleenex boxes, even plant pots turned upside down with a door put in the side (make sure the edges are smooth) can be used. You can purchase a shallow bowl from the dollar store for water. The under tank heater will probably cost you around $20 and a cheap thermostat from Zoo med is around $15-$20 Keep in mind, that if your snake ever gets sick, you'll need a vet. If you can't afford the tank, how are you going to afford veterinary care? Owning a pet is more than just purchasing the initial stuff for it.
Answers:
You will need a hide box.YOu can use a small cardbord box for that if not wanting to spend alot of money.A small water dish.And you can use some newspaper on the bottom of the cage because easy to clean up.Money spent on it probably 15.00 for the stuff I said.And a heat pad on the bottom of cage to keep warm.
it will cost about 250 for everything depending on how much your snake is and what you use for heating (heating pad is the best and its cheaper then a heating rock) And a 20 liter is way to small. you should buy a 25 gallon tank and that will last the snake for its whole life.
A 20 gl. tank is plenty big enough for an adult. I'm not sure if that's what you meant. Fish tanks usually are fairly tall with little floor space, which is what you want for cornsnakes. You can always turn the tank on it's side and have the sliding lid open upwards. That will give you more floor space. The under tank heater and thermostat are probably the most you'll spend besides the tank and the snake of course. As mentioned, hides can be made from anything. I use old boxes, kleenex boxes, even plant pots turned upside down with a door put in the side (make sure the edges are smooth) can be used. You can purchase a shallow bowl from the dollar store for water. The under tank heater will probably cost you around $20 and a cheap thermostat from Zoo med is around $15-$20 Keep in mind, that if your snake ever gets sick, you'll need a vet. If you can't afford the tank, how are you going to afford veterinary care? Owning a pet is more than just purchasing the initial stuff for it.
Corn snake?
He is 3 weeks old and in the pet store they fed him live mice. Can I now feed him frozen?
Answers:
My babies all take frozen thawed immediately and are not fed live at all. Your baby should readily take f/t pinkies. I'm appalled that a store would have such a young snake. It couldn't have had more than a couple of meals at the most as most of us feed after first shed when they are around a week old. This is typical of pet stores unfortunately. I hope he eats for you! I don't sell any baby until they've had at least 3 meals in a row without refusal. Make sure you heat the pinky well in hot water and dry thoroughly. I find I get better feeding responses if I feed them hot. Live mice have body temps of 100-101 degrees so the mouse needs to be warm.
Yes, but it may take him a while to start accepting frozen/thawed mice. If he is hungry, he will eat! Just make sure you warm (thaw) the mouse evenly and thoroughly (NOT in the microwave). It is best to either feed the mouse to the snake using long tongs, or to lie the mouse on the floor of the tank in front of the hide box (if the snake is in it).
Eventually, let them thaw and wiggle it on the ground or in the air with long tongs so it looks like its alive and he should eat because he has to eat eventaully!
I dont really know try it itf it eats them regularly let it if not keep feeding it live mice and then try frozen ones again later!!
Answers:
My babies all take frozen thawed immediately and are not fed live at all. Your baby should readily take f/t pinkies. I'm appalled that a store would have such a young snake. It couldn't have had more than a couple of meals at the most as most of us feed after first shed when they are around a week old. This is typical of pet stores unfortunately. I hope he eats for you! I don't sell any baby until they've had at least 3 meals in a row without refusal. Make sure you heat the pinky well in hot water and dry thoroughly. I find I get better feeding responses if I feed them hot. Live mice have body temps of 100-101 degrees so the mouse needs to be warm.
Yes, but it may take him a while to start accepting frozen/thawed mice. If he is hungry, he will eat! Just make sure you warm (thaw) the mouse evenly and thoroughly (NOT in the microwave). It is best to either feed the mouse to the snake using long tongs, or to lie the mouse on the floor of the tank in front of the hide box (if the snake is in it).
Eventually, let them thaw and wiggle it on the ground or in the air with long tongs so it looks like its alive and he should eat because he has to eat eventaully!
I dont really know try it itf it eats them regularly let it if not keep feeding it live mice and then try frozen ones again later!!
Corn snake!?
i am goin to get a corn snake i have a 20littre tank i no this is small but i no it is ok whilst its a hatchling what else wud i need?
Answers:
*Read this,
Corn Snake Care Sheet
Corn snakes, Elaphe guttata guttata are one of the hardiest species of snake to keep in captivity. Corn snakes come in a huge variety of colors and patterns and as Joe Pierce of Snakes Alive! says "They are the guppies of the snake world". Corns snakes are bred by the tens of thousands each year by private breeders and hobbiests and I STRONGLY recommend that you buy a captive born animal. This not only helps the survival of the species in the wild, it also greatly increases your chances of getting a healthy, feeding animal.
Basic Setup
I'm going to give you two pieces of information. The first is what is essential to keep your snake healthy. The second is what would be ideal for your snake. The first thing you need is a cage with a SECURE lid. Corn snakes are good climbers and escape artists. For baby corn snakes I use plastic shoeboxes that I buy at Target. With a soldering iron I burn small holes every centimeter on all four sides of the box for ventilation. These cages are not very aesthetically pleasing, but they suit the purpose and are useful when you have multiple animals to take care of. Be sure to tape the lid down with duct tape so that there are no escapes. A five gallon aquarium with a locking lid also works well for young snakes and looks better in your living room. Medium sized snakes can be kept in sweater boxes.For adult snakes I have 1'x2'x1' cages, but if you only have a few animals my suggestion is to get a 20 gallon aquarium with a locking lid. This will provide all of the room your snake will need. As a substrate for the cages I use newspaper because it is clean, it is cheap, and it is easy to change. Newspaper is not aesthetically pleasing either so alternatives include pine shavings (NOT CEDAR) and outdoor carpeting. The pine shavings are easy to clean just by scooping out any that is soiled by waste. The carpeting will need to be washed, but if you keep an extra piece on hand this should not be a problem. Each cage should also contain a water dish that is large enough for the snake to sumerge itself. This will be very important during shedding. The water should be changed at least once a week or sooner if it gets soiled. Probably the most important thing in the cage, at least for hatchling snakes, is a hide box. This can be as simple as a piece of bark or an empty macaroni and cheese box, or you can go to the store and spend $20 on some fancy ceramic hide box. If you don't have much money, remember, the snake doesn't care what its cage looks like as long as you meet its basic needs. The final thing in the cage, and I admit I don't have one in all my cages is a branck for climbing. Corn snakes love to climg and if a branch is provided they will often be seen climbing on it. Also realize that the snake will use the branch as an opportunity to get closer to the lid and as something to brace itself against as it tries to open the lid.
Heating
Heating is a situation where much confusion seems to arise. Cornsnakes live in Florida, granted, but they also live in temperate zones like Kentucky. I have been keeping and breeding corns snakes for seven years now under a variety of conditions. Every book swears that corn snakes need a temperature gradient to thrive. This is not true. Corn snakes prefer a temperature gradient, as do we all (everyone likes to choose how hot or cold their environment is), but it is not essential. If it is within your means to provide a temperature gradient then by all means do so, but don't have a heart attack if you can't. There are two common way of providing a temperature gradient. One is to put an under tank heater or heat tape under part of the cage so that one part of the floor of the cage is warmer than the other. I do not recommend heating pads because they were not designed to be left on all the time and may be a fire hazard. I also do not recommend a hot rock because they have a tendancy to bake animals. You should not make the mistake of putting the hide box on the warm side of the cage so that a shy snake will stay on the warm side whether it wants to or not. The same is true for the cold side. Either put the hide box in the middle, or better yet, provide two hide boxes. A second method of heating is to shine a lamp or a spotlight or a heat emitter into one side of the cage. If you choose to provide a temperature gradient, or ANY supplemental heat for the snake, ALWAYS have a thermometer in the cage to warn you if the cage is becoming too hot. They have very nice digital remote thermometers at Radio Shack for about $25; I highly recommend them. So what temperature is right for your corn? Adult corn snakes will do very well at temperatures between 75-85 F (25-30 C). They will tolerate temperatures as low as 70 F (21 F), but at this temperature they probably will not eat very well. Baby corn snakes prefer a temperature slightly warmer in the 80-90 F (26-32 C) but again will tolerate cooler temperatures. I believe it is best to keep smaller corns as warm as possible to insure good feeding and digestion habits. A common cause of regurgitation in young corn snakes is a cage that is too cool for the snake to properly digest its meal. When I lived in an apartment I kept all of my corn snakes (juvenile and adults) at a temperature of 73-75 F. This was the temperature for the whole apartment and I did not have supplemental heating for the snakes. I did not lose a single snake, but it took up to three years for the snakes to reach proper breeding size. I currently keep my corn snakes at approximately 80-85 F during the day and 75-80 F during the night. I do not provide my corn snakes with a temperature gradient. Despite what some people would lead you to believe, corn snakes do not require UV light to thrive. Incandescent light and a healthy diet are all they require.
Feeding
The proper diet for a corn snake is dependent upon the age and size of the snake. Corn snakes will eat mice, rats, lizards, and small birds, but it is not necessary to feed them all of these types of food. I will begin with what I consider to be a good diet for hatchlings. Hatchling corn snakes should be fed one to two pinkie (newborn) mice per week. Hatchlings will probably accept up to four or five pinkie mice per week, but this is probably too much food and can lead to some problems later. As the corn snake increases in size, the one to two mice per week should be increased in size proportionately. The mouse fed to your snake should not be so large that it makes a huge bulge in the belly of the snake. If a food item is too large, the snake will have problems digesting it and it may be regurgitated. It is much better to feed two small mice than one big mouse because it will be easier for the snake to digest the smaller mice. When possible, feed your snake pre-killed food items in order to avoid injury to your snake. A frightened mouse can do considerable damage to a snake that is not hungry. Obviously, snakes in the wild are not eating thawed frozen mice, but rarely in the wild do you find corn snakes that do not have a few battle scars. There are a ew exceptions to the above feeding rule. The first exception is for males during the spring breeding season. Male corn snakes will often lose interest in food during the breeding season, especially when a receptive female is present. The second exception is for gravid females. Gravid females should be fed up to three or four small mice each week prior to egg laying. Females may quit eating prior to egg laying. It is also essential to boost the food supply of females who have just layed their eggs. Remember, in order for corn snakes to properly digest their food they need some heat. The higher the temperature in the cage (see above) the better your corn snake will digest its food and the more willing it will be to eat again. A common cause of regurgitation in corn snakes is that the cage was kept too cool.
Breeding
Corn snakes are a very easy species to breed. Every breeder has his or her own recipe for success. I'm going to give you mine. On Nov. 1 I stop feeding the corns I intend to breed the following season. On Nov. 15, the corns are places in a small sweater box (no matter their size) with a newspaper substrate, a large water bowl and a hide box. The corns are placed in a corner of my basement where it stays between 55 and 65 degrees F. There is some natural sunlight, but for the most part the room is dim. The corns are left in this room until February 14. I like to bring my snakes out of brumation on the most romantic day of the year so they will know what to do. It is very important to make sure the water does not spill or dry up or get contaminated with feces during the brumation. It is also good to keep the temp above 50 degrees F. If you don't have a room cold enough, try to keep the snakes as cool as possible, but slip them a few meals if they are in a room that is 70 degrees or above. (Remember that corns reproduce in the Florida Keys where there is very little seasonal change in temp. There, corns may rely on other cues such as seasonal changes in day length.) After the corns are warmed up I immediately start feeding them as much as they will eat without regurgitating. Sometimes the males will refuse food, but the females usually never do. As soon as the females go through their first shed I put the male in their cage. Some people put the female in the male's cage, but I haven't seen a difference between these two methods in my collection. Both snakes may start twitching and you may be able to witness copulation, but I have had snakes that I have never witnessed breeding produce offspring year after year, so don't panic. After 3-5 days I remove the male. Just to be safe I add the male back to the female's cage after a week and I leave him there for the next three days. Once breeding has taken place the female will start eating like crazy for a period of two to three weeks and then just stop completely. Don't try to feed a female you suspect is gravid. Sometimes you can feel the eggs as the female glides over your hand, other times you will notice that her cross sectional shape has become triagular where the eggs push up on the spine. The time between breeding and egg laying is 3-4 weeks. For laying, I use a plastic shoebox with one inch of moist vermiculite and one inch of sphagnum moss. The females usually lay 8-14 days after their post mating shed. I keep the eggs half buried in moist vermiculite in a closed tupperware container at a constant temp of 83 degrees F in a hovabator incubator. I also fill the bottom of the hovabator with water to raise the relative humidity. The eggs generally hatch in 45-50 days and the babies are kept together in a sweater bow with a large bowl of water until their first shed, which happens in 7-10 days.
Commonly encountered problems
The most commonly encountered problem that I hear about is regugitation. THere are a number of causes for this. The most common cause is that the cage is not warm enough. The prey item can literally rot in the stomach of the snake, and this causes the snake to regugitate. The second most common cause is that the prey was too big. Corns have appetites that are sometimes bigger than their stomachs. The obvious solutions to these problems are to turn up the heat and feed smaller prey items. The second most commonly encountered problem is that the corn refuses to eat. Both of the above causes can be the cause of your snake not eating, and again, the solutions are stated above. Another reason for a corn not eating is that it is either in a mating cycle or a brumation cycle. Male corns especially will stop eating after coming out of brumation if they think there will be some hanky-panky going on. Females will stop eating if they are full of eggs. Both males and females may stop feeding if there has been a steady drop in the average temperature in their cage, or if there has been a progressive decline in day length. This is especially true for wild caught corn snakes and emoryi rat snakes. I would not worry about a healthy corn snake that has not eaten for a month, and I would probably not start worrying until about two months. The last reason for a corn to not eat, aisde from medical reasons that I won't even try to describe, is that it does not feel secure in its surroundings. Baby corns will often refuse to eat when they have been removed from one cage and placed in a new one or a larger one. The solution is to provide the corn with a hide box, or more thatn one hide box. Try feeding dead prey, then live prey. Try feeding during the day, then at night. Try putting a towel over the cage for feeding. My last resort, which works 75% of the time for hatchling corns that won't eat, is to cut open the brain of a pinkie, squeeze out some blood, then try feeding this to the corn.
Good Luck, and remember, there is no substitute for research. Do not rely solely on this page. Find other care sheets, buy some books and ask some questions.
Sorry not sure but ask when you get the snake at the store what kind of set up the snake will need, they will help you find everything to set up your tank.
A tight fittling lid
A heat light
A UVA/UVB light
a water dish big enough for him to soak in
A rock for shedding
Branches to climp
A hidding spot
And newspaper for bedding
You can probably find all you need on the site below,i have 2 male corn snakes they are 7yrs old and about 5 feet long.Hope you find what you need.Good luck.
that is only a 5gallons nere in the US you should double that and you should be perfect for now those are only 10$ in the US you would need a substrate a source of heat and termometer
he're some great sites telling you about corn sakes and how to keep them:
http://www.kingsnake.com/rockymountain/r...
http://members.aol.com/kathandcam/hawkhe...
http://www.reptilehabitat.com/corn_snake...
http://www.wnyherp.org/care-sheets/snake...
Hope that helped : )
I have a corn snake and this is what I needed.
A heating pad that i put on the side of the tank
A wire topper for the size of your tank
A substrate like sand or Aspen Shavings
A water dish
A climbing branch of some sort
A hideout spot for your snake
A thermometer.
You should buy a 30 gallon tank to accommodate a 4 foot plus snake comfortably.
Answers:
*Read this,
Corn Snake Care Sheet
Corn snakes, Elaphe guttata guttata are one of the hardiest species of snake to keep in captivity. Corn snakes come in a huge variety of colors and patterns and as Joe Pierce of Snakes Alive! says "They are the guppies of the snake world". Corns snakes are bred by the tens of thousands each year by private breeders and hobbiests and I STRONGLY recommend that you buy a captive born animal. This not only helps the survival of the species in the wild, it also greatly increases your chances of getting a healthy, feeding animal.
Basic Setup
I'm going to give you two pieces of information. The first is what is essential to keep your snake healthy. The second is what would be ideal for your snake. The first thing you need is a cage with a SECURE lid. Corn snakes are good climbers and escape artists. For baby corn snakes I use plastic shoeboxes that I buy at Target. With a soldering iron I burn small holes every centimeter on all four sides of the box for ventilation. These cages are not very aesthetically pleasing, but they suit the purpose and are useful when you have multiple animals to take care of. Be sure to tape the lid down with duct tape so that there are no escapes. A five gallon aquarium with a locking lid also works well for young snakes and looks better in your living room. Medium sized snakes can be kept in sweater boxes.For adult snakes I have 1'x2'x1' cages, but if you only have a few animals my suggestion is to get a 20 gallon aquarium with a locking lid. This will provide all of the room your snake will need. As a substrate for the cages I use newspaper because it is clean, it is cheap, and it is easy to change. Newspaper is not aesthetically pleasing either so alternatives include pine shavings (NOT CEDAR) and outdoor carpeting. The pine shavings are easy to clean just by scooping out any that is soiled by waste. The carpeting will need to be washed, but if you keep an extra piece on hand this should not be a problem. Each cage should also contain a water dish that is large enough for the snake to sumerge itself. This will be very important during shedding. The water should be changed at least once a week or sooner if it gets soiled. Probably the most important thing in the cage, at least for hatchling snakes, is a hide box. This can be as simple as a piece of bark or an empty macaroni and cheese box, or you can go to the store and spend $20 on some fancy ceramic hide box. If you don't have much money, remember, the snake doesn't care what its cage looks like as long as you meet its basic needs. The final thing in the cage, and I admit I don't have one in all my cages is a branck for climbing. Corn snakes love to climg and if a branch is provided they will often be seen climbing on it. Also realize that the snake will use the branch as an opportunity to get closer to the lid and as something to brace itself against as it tries to open the lid.
Heating
Heating is a situation where much confusion seems to arise. Cornsnakes live in Florida, granted, but they also live in temperate zones like Kentucky. I have been keeping and breeding corns snakes for seven years now under a variety of conditions. Every book swears that corn snakes need a temperature gradient to thrive. This is not true. Corn snakes prefer a temperature gradient, as do we all (everyone likes to choose how hot or cold their environment is), but it is not essential. If it is within your means to provide a temperature gradient then by all means do so, but don't have a heart attack if you can't. There are two common way of providing a temperature gradient. One is to put an under tank heater or heat tape under part of the cage so that one part of the floor of the cage is warmer than the other. I do not recommend heating pads because they were not designed to be left on all the time and may be a fire hazard. I also do not recommend a hot rock because they have a tendancy to bake animals. You should not make the mistake of putting the hide box on the warm side of the cage so that a shy snake will stay on the warm side whether it wants to or not. The same is true for the cold side. Either put the hide box in the middle, or better yet, provide two hide boxes. A second method of heating is to shine a lamp or a spotlight or a heat emitter into one side of the cage. If you choose to provide a temperature gradient, or ANY supplemental heat for the snake, ALWAYS have a thermometer in the cage to warn you if the cage is becoming too hot. They have very nice digital remote thermometers at Radio Shack for about $25; I highly recommend them. So what temperature is right for your corn? Adult corn snakes will do very well at temperatures between 75-85 F (25-30 C). They will tolerate temperatures as low as 70 F (21 F), but at this temperature they probably will not eat very well. Baby corn snakes prefer a temperature slightly warmer in the 80-90 F (26-32 C) but again will tolerate cooler temperatures. I believe it is best to keep smaller corns as warm as possible to insure good feeding and digestion habits. A common cause of regurgitation in young corn snakes is a cage that is too cool for the snake to properly digest its meal. When I lived in an apartment I kept all of my corn snakes (juvenile and adults) at a temperature of 73-75 F. This was the temperature for the whole apartment and I did not have supplemental heating for the snakes. I did not lose a single snake, but it took up to three years for the snakes to reach proper breeding size. I currently keep my corn snakes at approximately 80-85 F during the day and 75-80 F during the night. I do not provide my corn snakes with a temperature gradient. Despite what some people would lead you to believe, corn snakes do not require UV light to thrive. Incandescent light and a healthy diet are all they require.
Feeding
The proper diet for a corn snake is dependent upon the age and size of the snake. Corn snakes will eat mice, rats, lizards, and small birds, but it is not necessary to feed them all of these types of food. I will begin with what I consider to be a good diet for hatchlings. Hatchling corn snakes should be fed one to two pinkie (newborn) mice per week. Hatchlings will probably accept up to four or five pinkie mice per week, but this is probably too much food and can lead to some problems later. As the corn snake increases in size, the one to two mice per week should be increased in size proportionately. The mouse fed to your snake should not be so large that it makes a huge bulge in the belly of the snake. If a food item is too large, the snake will have problems digesting it and it may be regurgitated. It is much better to feed two small mice than one big mouse because it will be easier for the snake to digest the smaller mice. When possible, feed your snake pre-killed food items in order to avoid injury to your snake. A frightened mouse can do considerable damage to a snake that is not hungry. Obviously, snakes in the wild are not eating thawed frozen mice, but rarely in the wild do you find corn snakes that do not have a few battle scars. There are a ew exceptions to the above feeding rule. The first exception is for males during the spring breeding season. Male corn snakes will often lose interest in food during the breeding season, especially when a receptive female is present. The second exception is for gravid females. Gravid females should be fed up to three or four small mice each week prior to egg laying. Females may quit eating prior to egg laying. It is also essential to boost the food supply of females who have just layed their eggs. Remember, in order for corn snakes to properly digest their food they need some heat. The higher the temperature in the cage (see above) the better your corn snake will digest its food and the more willing it will be to eat again. A common cause of regurgitation in corn snakes is that the cage was kept too cool.
Breeding
Corn snakes are a very easy species to breed. Every breeder has his or her own recipe for success. I'm going to give you mine. On Nov. 1 I stop feeding the corns I intend to breed the following season. On Nov. 15, the corns are places in a small sweater box (no matter their size) with a newspaper substrate, a large water bowl and a hide box. The corns are placed in a corner of my basement where it stays between 55 and 65 degrees F. There is some natural sunlight, but for the most part the room is dim. The corns are left in this room until February 14. I like to bring my snakes out of brumation on the most romantic day of the year so they will know what to do. It is very important to make sure the water does not spill or dry up or get contaminated with feces during the brumation. It is also good to keep the temp above 50 degrees F. If you don't have a room cold enough, try to keep the snakes as cool as possible, but slip them a few meals if they are in a room that is 70 degrees or above. (Remember that corns reproduce in the Florida Keys where there is very little seasonal change in temp. There, corns may rely on other cues such as seasonal changes in day length.) After the corns are warmed up I immediately start feeding them as much as they will eat without regurgitating. Sometimes the males will refuse food, but the females usually never do. As soon as the females go through their first shed I put the male in their cage. Some people put the female in the male's cage, but I haven't seen a difference between these two methods in my collection. Both snakes may start twitching and you may be able to witness copulation, but I have had snakes that I have never witnessed breeding produce offspring year after year, so don't panic. After 3-5 days I remove the male. Just to be safe I add the male back to the female's cage after a week and I leave him there for the next three days. Once breeding has taken place the female will start eating like crazy for a period of two to three weeks and then just stop completely. Don't try to feed a female you suspect is gravid. Sometimes you can feel the eggs as the female glides over your hand, other times you will notice that her cross sectional shape has become triagular where the eggs push up on the spine. The time between breeding and egg laying is 3-4 weeks. For laying, I use a plastic shoebox with one inch of moist vermiculite and one inch of sphagnum moss. The females usually lay 8-14 days after their post mating shed. I keep the eggs half buried in moist vermiculite in a closed tupperware container at a constant temp of 83 degrees F in a hovabator incubator. I also fill the bottom of the hovabator with water to raise the relative humidity. The eggs generally hatch in 45-50 days and the babies are kept together in a sweater bow with a large bowl of water until their first shed, which happens in 7-10 days.
Commonly encountered problems
The most commonly encountered problem that I hear about is regugitation. THere are a number of causes for this. The most common cause is that the cage is not warm enough. The prey item can literally rot in the stomach of the snake, and this causes the snake to regugitate. The second most common cause is that the prey was too big. Corns have appetites that are sometimes bigger than their stomachs. The obvious solutions to these problems are to turn up the heat and feed smaller prey items. The second most commonly encountered problem is that the corn refuses to eat. Both of the above causes can be the cause of your snake not eating, and again, the solutions are stated above. Another reason for a corn not eating is that it is either in a mating cycle or a brumation cycle. Male corns especially will stop eating after coming out of brumation if they think there will be some hanky-panky going on. Females will stop eating if they are full of eggs. Both males and females may stop feeding if there has been a steady drop in the average temperature in their cage, or if there has been a progressive decline in day length. This is especially true for wild caught corn snakes and emoryi rat snakes. I would not worry about a healthy corn snake that has not eaten for a month, and I would probably not start worrying until about two months. The last reason for a corn to not eat, aisde from medical reasons that I won't even try to describe, is that it does not feel secure in its surroundings. Baby corns will often refuse to eat when they have been removed from one cage and placed in a new one or a larger one. The solution is to provide the corn with a hide box, or more thatn one hide box. Try feeding dead prey, then live prey. Try feeding during the day, then at night. Try putting a towel over the cage for feeding. My last resort, which works 75% of the time for hatchling corns that won't eat, is to cut open the brain of a pinkie, squeeze out some blood, then try feeding this to the corn.
Good Luck, and remember, there is no substitute for research. Do not rely solely on this page. Find other care sheets, buy some books and ask some questions.
Sorry not sure but ask when you get the snake at the store what kind of set up the snake will need, they will help you find everything to set up your tank.
A tight fittling lid
A heat light
A UVA/UVB light
a water dish big enough for him to soak in
A rock for shedding
Branches to climp
A hidding spot
And newspaper for bedding
You can probably find all you need on the site below,i have 2 male corn snakes they are 7yrs old and about 5 feet long.Hope you find what you need.Good luck.
that is only a 5gallons nere in the US you should double that and you should be perfect for now those are only 10$ in the US you would need a substrate a source of heat and termometer
he're some great sites telling you about corn sakes and how to keep them:
http://www.kingsnake.com/rockymountain/r...
http://members.aol.com/kathandcam/hawkhe...
http://www.reptilehabitat.com/corn_snake...
http://www.wnyherp.org/care-sheets/snake...
Hope that helped : )
I have a corn snake and this is what I needed.
A heating pad that i put on the side of the tank
A wire topper for the size of your tank
A substrate like sand or Aspen Shavings
A water dish
A climbing branch of some sort
A hideout spot for your snake
A thermometer.
You should buy a 30 gallon tank to accommodate a 4 foot plus snake comfortably.
Corn snake seems aggressive? Help?
I have a corn snake, I've had him for about a year. I have experience with snakes but I don't know whats going on right now. The snake is about a year old (he was a couple months old when I got him). He is about 2.5 ft.
Yesterday I changed his cage because the one he was in was starting to get to small so I bought him a bigger one. All of yesterday he was normal and he was enjoying the new cage. A couple of hours ago I went to check up on him and when I walked into the room he sprung up and tightened when I walked closer he tried to attack me! I didnt know what he was doing... I put my hand on the glass of the cage and he attacked me again! He kept doing that all the time. Then later I checked on him again but then he was really calm, kind of. If I looked close at him he just moved his head up and down really quick a couple of times, then he went back to what looked like sleeping.
Answers:
It has been recommended that when introducing a snake to a new environment (such as a new cage), that you leave him be for at least 2 weeks without feeding or handling. The snake needs this time to get acclimated to the new cage, get used to his new surroundings, and used to the room that he now has. I never had this problem with my ball python when I changed him from a 10 gallon tank to a 40 gallon, he ate and let me hold him, but it has been known to occur in other snakes. But, just give it time and soon he should calm down. Make sure you add the same cage furniture to his new cage that you had in the old.
Maybe he was hungry or in a bad mood??
They eat mice or 'hoppers' and require water. If they are hungry or dehydrated they don't like it.
make sure he is on th eright bedding wat kind of beddng is it
The behaviour will pass, it is just the change of the environment that made him nervous and defensive. Snakes are very aware of different smells and the fact that they are no longer in their own "territory". He will adjust and calm down, make sure he has adequate hide spots for the feeling of security.
Make sure the cage has the same equiment as the old one. For instence, have you changed his heat lamp for a stronger one? Or changed it entirely for mat heating? Mat heating is not a suitable heating system for snakes as they bask in the sun, from heat comming from above, not below. Something as simple as that could disorientate the snake. Is it's hot side of the cage on the same side of the cage as the last one? Have you rearranged it's materiel? Foliage is the same? Make it so that the snake doesn't think for a minute that it's in a new vivarium.
You helped me recently on my "snake fattening" question so I only feel I should return the favour. Consider yourself with 10 points and a 12th best answer.
Hope I helped!
Nathan S
Yesterday I changed his cage because the one he was in was starting to get to small so I bought him a bigger one. All of yesterday he was normal and he was enjoying the new cage. A couple of hours ago I went to check up on him and when I walked into the room he sprung up and tightened when I walked closer he tried to attack me! I didnt know what he was doing... I put my hand on the glass of the cage and he attacked me again! He kept doing that all the time. Then later I checked on him again but then he was really calm, kind of. If I looked close at him he just moved his head up and down really quick a couple of times, then he went back to what looked like sleeping.
Answers:
It has been recommended that when introducing a snake to a new environment (such as a new cage), that you leave him be for at least 2 weeks without feeding or handling. The snake needs this time to get acclimated to the new cage, get used to his new surroundings, and used to the room that he now has. I never had this problem with my ball python when I changed him from a 10 gallon tank to a 40 gallon, he ate and let me hold him, but it has been known to occur in other snakes. But, just give it time and soon he should calm down. Make sure you add the same cage furniture to his new cage that you had in the old.
Maybe he was hungry or in a bad mood??
They eat mice or 'hoppers' and require water. If they are hungry or dehydrated they don't like it.
make sure he is on th eright bedding wat kind of beddng is it
The behaviour will pass, it is just the change of the environment that made him nervous and defensive. Snakes are very aware of different smells and the fact that they are no longer in their own "territory". He will adjust and calm down, make sure he has adequate hide spots for the feeling of security.
Make sure the cage has the same equiment as the old one. For instence, have you changed his heat lamp for a stronger one? Or changed it entirely for mat heating? Mat heating is not a suitable heating system for snakes as they bask in the sun, from heat comming from above, not below. Something as simple as that could disorientate the snake. Is it's hot side of the cage on the same side of the cage as the last one? Have you rearranged it's materiel? Foliage is the same? Make it so that the snake doesn't think for a minute that it's in a new vivarium.
You helped me recently on my "snake fattening" question so I only feel I should return the favour. Consider yourself with 10 points and a 12th best answer.
Hope I helped!
Nathan S
Corn snake seems aggressive or agitated during the past week.?
I have a corn snake that seems to be agrivated dring the past week. I took it outside to slither around for a while and when id pick him up to move him away from the bushes he'd tense up and hiss at me. I also noticed he is bleeding from where he poops. I'm not sure if it's a male or female so I was wondering if it might be menstruating, I don't know the cycles of a snake or if they even do have periods during the time of year they would usually be mating. I don't know when snakes do mate. Aslo, I had the lid to his cage sitting on my bed with a frozen mouse sitting on the lid to thaw, I was playing a video game with the snake around my shoulders not paying attention and he got the frozen mouse so I was thinking maybe that could have caused some damage to his body. I'm hoping thats not the case though. I would really appreciate some help.
Answers:
Not to be rude, but you really do not need a snake. If he/she is bleeding, something is wrong. It could be serious. Not knowing what kind of bedding you are using for the tank, I would say it could be an impaction. You really need to take this snake to the vet.
He should have never been put on the ground. That is a good way for him to pick up parasites.
If the mouse was still pretty frozen, you could end up with a dead snake. If it was thawed completely, you are lucky.
Ok..
The aggresiveness could just be coming up to shedding. Even if he/she doesn't usually get aggressive, they have once offs. Hey, I bet you get a bad day once in a while. :)
Err, female snakes don't menstruate.. no blood. Blood should never come from a snake. :(
I'm afraid you're going to need a reptile/exotics handy vet. Luckily corn snakes are common enough that most vets have experience with them.
Good luck, hope your nake is ok!
you need to take the snake to vet asap. snakes should never bleed from any where. dont put your snake on the ground, can pick up paracites. the bedding your talking about is called asto turf. ihave had 5 corn snakes and never ran into this. the attitude is from you bothering it when it is looking for a comfortable spot to hang out , and it doesnt feel right(its sick). also try feeding it live mice, they enjoy the hunt, may make it happier.
I've got a four or five month old corn (can't remember ^.^;) as well as a 3 1/2 ft ball python. The python's incredibly docile and shy while the corn is hell-bent on taking over the universe. Both get EXTREMELY pissy up to a week before they shed.
The blood I'm not so sure about. It sounds like parasites to me. The vet thing is a good idea for that. I'm not trying to sound bossy or anything, but I wouldn't put the snake on the ground outside. It's extremely easy for snakes to pick up parasites. We have a screened in porch so I let mine wander about out there. Perhaps try finding a place like that?
I doubt the thawing mouse was the problem unless it was rock hard solid frozen. Sneaky little buggers, aren't these corns of ours? ~.~
Ok, no hurt full comments intended, you are asking for help
So you say you called a vet - good. I haven't heard of a snake go through some menstrual cycle so I would say the bleeding is definitely something serious. Yes the frozen mouse could have caused a lot of damage. One of the reasons as to why one should not handle a snake once its just eaten is that the food item can cause damage. So in your case now this item is harder as its frozen and could have caused a little more damage - I would suggest not handling him until the vet seen him.
I guess a snake can become aggressive when about to shed but that still wouldn't explain the bleeding.
Best thing I would advise is to get him to the vet asap and I'm sure you've learnt from your mistake. (you only human).
Good luck. - Let me know please.
Okay i'll try to help:
Man i can't find anything on the web about bleeding? Humm i keep digging butt nothing comes up? This is all i could find for you:
Most illnesses in snakes can be attributed to a lack of heating or of a regular thermal regimen. This means keeping a constant temperature of around 72 degrees is important. Regurgitating food can be a sign of improper digestion due to thermal problems. Snakes can also be susceptible to respiratory and intestinal infections. These can be eliminated by thoroughly cleaning the cage on a regular basis. Snakes can also get skin mites. These can be treated with a shampoo or powder.
DO NOT give your snake Supplements or Nutrition because it will cause an overdose of vitamins will result.
good luck with your snake i hope the little guy feels better!
use more insects,not too many big meals,get a bigger cage,and it could be a female trying to find or make a nest.it might have a condition called egg binding,where the eggs get stuck and sometimes the shell breaks inside,it is probably wants to be left alone to make a nest,but i would bring it to a vet for a simple x-ray and that should solve your problem.the egg binding is much like a human having a c-section.the eggs don't come out right so it may need a little help from the vet,don't do it on your own.good luck.
In a recent Reptiles magazine, there's a picture of a king snake bleeding from its cloaca. The caption said they do that sometimes after being probed. Perhaps corn snakes do this too as a reaction to stress.
I "walk" my pets around the yard, too. I've noticed that they'll get defensive when I approach to pick them up. Perhaps we simply seem so much larger to them when their on the ground.
As for the frozen mouse, don't be surprised if your snake regurgitates it. If the mouse starts to go bad during digestion, the snake will simply get rid of it.
If you don't already have it, I recommend getting The Corn Snake Manuel by Bill and Kathy Love. It's full of great information including health and breeding, as well as beautiful pictures.
I'm glad you cared enough to have a vet check your snake out. Sounds like he's in good hands.
I have a Colombian red tailed boa constrictor, and I have had her for two years.and she has never once been aggressive. I know you talked to the vet, but i have some tips on what might cause this aggressive behavior.
first..how often do you handle your snake?...you should be handling her at least 4 times a week so that she gets accustomed to the human scent..but NEVER handle her after she eats...this can not only irritate her, but make her regurgitate her food,hence making her sick! Second...are you handling her food before you handle her?...if a snake smells ANY rodent on you while being handled this WILL make them bite, it puts them into hunt mode.so ...WASH UP!
and last but not least...how is she shedding?...snakes are suppose to shed in one full piece.if she is not doing so ..soak her in a tub of water to put moisture in her skin helping her shed!..( you can tell when they are going to shed because their eyes go blue..or a blue like glaze this is called"in the blue" and will happen before she sheds!)if you are doing all this.and them some...then it would have to be her prior owners that gave her these traits...BUT DON'T WORRY!! if you keep doing all the above she will eventually become tame! it is a common misconception that snakes are aggressive! they are actually VERY docile!..oh yeah...I'm in school right now and becoming an animal care specialist.if that puts you at ease! if you have any more questions I would LOVE to help!
oh yeah..snakes dont get periods...lol
Answers:
Not to be rude, but you really do not need a snake. If he/she is bleeding, something is wrong. It could be serious. Not knowing what kind of bedding you are using for the tank, I would say it could be an impaction. You really need to take this snake to the vet.
He should have never been put on the ground. That is a good way for him to pick up parasites.
If the mouse was still pretty frozen, you could end up with a dead snake. If it was thawed completely, you are lucky.
Ok..
The aggresiveness could just be coming up to shedding. Even if he/she doesn't usually get aggressive, they have once offs. Hey, I bet you get a bad day once in a while. :)
Err, female snakes don't menstruate.. no blood. Blood should never come from a snake. :(
I'm afraid you're going to need a reptile/exotics handy vet. Luckily corn snakes are common enough that most vets have experience with them.
Good luck, hope your nake is ok!
you need to take the snake to vet asap. snakes should never bleed from any where. dont put your snake on the ground, can pick up paracites. the bedding your talking about is called asto turf. ihave had 5 corn snakes and never ran into this. the attitude is from you bothering it when it is looking for a comfortable spot to hang out , and it doesnt feel right(its sick). also try feeding it live mice, they enjoy the hunt, may make it happier.
I've got a four or five month old corn (can't remember ^.^;) as well as a 3 1/2 ft ball python. The python's incredibly docile and shy while the corn is hell-bent on taking over the universe. Both get EXTREMELY pissy up to a week before they shed.
The blood I'm not so sure about. It sounds like parasites to me. The vet thing is a good idea for that. I'm not trying to sound bossy or anything, but I wouldn't put the snake on the ground outside. It's extremely easy for snakes to pick up parasites. We have a screened in porch so I let mine wander about out there. Perhaps try finding a place like that?
I doubt the thawing mouse was the problem unless it was rock hard solid frozen. Sneaky little buggers, aren't these corns of ours? ~.~
Ok, no hurt full comments intended, you are asking for help
So you say you called a vet - good. I haven't heard of a snake go through some menstrual cycle so I would say the bleeding is definitely something serious. Yes the frozen mouse could have caused a lot of damage. One of the reasons as to why one should not handle a snake once its just eaten is that the food item can cause damage. So in your case now this item is harder as its frozen and could have caused a little more damage - I would suggest not handling him until the vet seen him.
I guess a snake can become aggressive when about to shed but that still wouldn't explain the bleeding.
Best thing I would advise is to get him to the vet asap and I'm sure you've learnt from your mistake. (you only human).
Good luck. - Let me know please.
Okay i'll try to help:
Man i can't find anything on the web about bleeding? Humm i keep digging butt nothing comes up? This is all i could find for you:
Most illnesses in snakes can be attributed to a lack of heating or of a regular thermal regimen. This means keeping a constant temperature of around 72 degrees is important. Regurgitating food can be a sign of improper digestion due to thermal problems. Snakes can also be susceptible to respiratory and intestinal infections. These can be eliminated by thoroughly cleaning the cage on a regular basis. Snakes can also get skin mites. These can be treated with a shampoo or powder.
DO NOT give your snake Supplements or Nutrition because it will cause an overdose of vitamins will result.
good luck with your snake i hope the little guy feels better!
use more insects,not too many big meals,get a bigger cage,and it could be a female trying to find or make a nest.it might have a condition called egg binding,where the eggs get stuck and sometimes the shell breaks inside,it is probably wants to be left alone to make a nest,but i would bring it to a vet for a simple x-ray and that should solve your problem.the egg binding is much like a human having a c-section.the eggs don't come out right so it may need a little help from the vet,don't do it on your own.good luck.
In a recent Reptiles magazine, there's a picture of a king snake bleeding from its cloaca. The caption said they do that sometimes after being probed. Perhaps corn snakes do this too as a reaction to stress.
I "walk" my pets around the yard, too. I've noticed that they'll get defensive when I approach to pick them up. Perhaps we simply seem so much larger to them when their on the ground.
As for the frozen mouse, don't be surprised if your snake regurgitates it. If the mouse starts to go bad during digestion, the snake will simply get rid of it.
If you don't already have it, I recommend getting The Corn Snake Manuel by Bill and Kathy Love. It's full of great information including health and breeding, as well as beautiful pictures.
I'm glad you cared enough to have a vet check your snake out. Sounds like he's in good hands.
I have a Colombian red tailed boa constrictor, and I have had her for two years.and she has never once been aggressive. I know you talked to the vet, but i have some tips on what might cause this aggressive behavior.
first..how often do you handle your snake?...you should be handling her at least 4 times a week so that she gets accustomed to the human scent..but NEVER handle her after she eats...this can not only irritate her, but make her regurgitate her food,hence making her sick! Second...are you handling her food before you handle her?...if a snake smells ANY rodent on you while being handled this WILL make them bite, it puts them into hunt mode.so ...WASH UP!
and last but not least...how is she shedding?...snakes are suppose to shed in one full piece.if she is not doing so ..soak her in a tub of water to put moisture in her skin helping her shed!..( you can tell when they are going to shed because their eyes go blue..or a blue like glaze this is called"in the blue" and will happen before she sheds!)if you are doing all this.and them some...then it would have to be her prior owners that gave her these traits...BUT DON'T WORRY!! if you keep doing all the above she will eventually become tame! it is a common misconception that snakes are aggressive! they are actually VERY docile!..oh yeah...I'm in school right now and becoming an animal care specialist.if that puts you at ease! if you have any more questions I would LOVE to help!
oh yeah..snakes dont get periods...lol
Corn snake question?
what plant can i put in a corn snakes cage or fake and how would you stirlize a stick you found outside and can corns get an illeness from it being too humid
Answers:
Any houseplant that doesn't grow too rapidly will be a good choice to put with a snake, and although the snake probably won't take a bite of anything, it's better to stay away from the more poisonous varieties, like pothos, and stay with the non-toxic variety. These include the Aluminium Plant (Pilea), most Dracaena species which include 'Lucky Bamboo', Jade Plants (most Crassula's, which include cultivars like Gollum and Hobbit, both of which are very interesting to look at), and Aeschynanthus (also called lipstick plant) all of which will tolerate the bright light required of a snake enclosure and don't have specific humidity requirements. In lower humidity environments, you may have to water the plants lightly every few days, but most are succulents that shouldn't be watered too often.
Corn snakes should have 40-60% humidity, a little higher if they're shedding and don't have access to a large contaner of clean water where they can bathe. They're not picky about humidity. Our corn snake lived many a year in Texas where the daytime humidity was over 70%. Watch it when winter rolls around, especially if using overhead heating, because the humidity will fall and may need to be supllimented with a warm water spray bottle.
Answers:
Any houseplant that doesn't grow too rapidly will be a good choice to put with a snake, and although the snake probably won't take a bite of anything, it's better to stay away from the more poisonous varieties, like pothos, and stay with the non-toxic variety. These include the Aluminium Plant (Pilea), most Dracaena species which include 'Lucky Bamboo', Jade Plants (most Crassula's, which include cultivars like Gollum and Hobbit, both of which are very interesting to look at), and Aeschynanthus (also called lipstick plant) all of which will tolerate the bright light required of a snake enclosure and don't have specific humidity requirements. In lower humidity environments, you may have to water the plants lightly every few days, but most are succulents that shouldn't be watered too often.
Corn snakes should have 40-60% humidity, a little higher if they're shedding and don't have access to a large contaner of clean water where they can bathe. They're not picky about humidity. Our corn snake lived many a year in Texas where the daytime humidity was over 70%. Watch it when winter rolls around, especially if using overhead heating, because the humidity will fall and may need to be supllimented with a warm water spray bottle.
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Corn snake help?
witch hide do you prefer the small or medium raptile cave from exo-terra for a hatchling corn snake here are the pictuers of them
http://exo-terra.com/en/products/reptile...
and i also need a name for a sunglow corn snake
Answers:
The smaller the better. Snakes feel more secure in tight spaces and are much more at ease when they can feel the walls of their hiding spot on their skin.
I prefer naming my pets after mythological entities, so I would go with something a sun god's name like Ra (Egyptian), Helios (Roman), Apollo (Greek), or Freyr (Norse).
Small. Snakes like dark places to hide in that surround them at all sides. Oh, and a good name for a sunglow is... Sunny!! lol
http://exo-terra.com/en/products/reptile...
and i also need a name for a sunglow corn snake
Answers:
The smaller the better. Snakes feel more secure in tight spaces and are much more at ease when they can feel the walls of their hiding spot on their skin.
I prefer naming my pets after mythological entities, so I would go with something a sun god's name like Ra (Egyptian), Helios (Roman), Apollo (Greek), or Freyr (Norse).
Small. Snakes like dark places to hide in that surround them at all sides. Oh, and a good name for a sunglow is... Sunny!! lol
Corn snake help plzzzzz?
Corn snake help plzz?
can i put damp driftwood that ive boiled and then cooked but is still damp
Additional Details
for my baby corn snake that should shed anytime
Answers:
no it is proubly to hot for the snake it might burn it so please don't do it it sadens me when animals are hurt by some one that does not know what he / or she knows what there doing
If it is still damp then it wasn't cooked long enough. The wood should be completely dry, otherwise you risk growing mold and captive-bred sakes are prone to respiratory infections anyway.
Since it's August, I'd say put it in the sun for an afternoon and it should dry out. Your snake shouldn't HAVE to rely on the wood to shed, it's more of an assistance than a necessity.
can i put damp driftwood that ive boiled and then cooked but is still damp
Additional Details
for my baby corn snake that should shed anytime
Answers:
no it is proubly to hot for the snake it might burn it so please don't do it it sadens me when animals are hurt by some one that does not know what he / or she knows what there doing
If it is still damp then it wasn't cooked long enough. The wood should be completely dry, otherwise you risk growing mold and captive-bred sakes are prone to respiratory infections anyway.
Since it's August, I'd say put it in the sun for an afternoon and it should dry out. Your snake shouldn't HAVE to rely on the wood to shed, it's more of an assistance than a necessity.
Corn snake help plzz?
can i put damp driftwood that ive boiled and then cooked but is still damp
Answers:
Ya.. But if you boiled then baked..it shouldn't be damp..
Yes it should help him shed faster.
Just dry it out a little in the oven first then put it in and it will be fine. your snake will find this useful when rubbing off his old skin.
Answers:
Ya.. But if you boiled then baked..it shouldn't be damp..
Yes it should help him shed faster.
Just dry it out a little in the oven first then put it in and it will be fine. your snake will find this useful when rubbing off his old skin.
Corn snake habitat?
what plant can i put in a corn snakes cage or fake and how would you stirlize a stick you found outside and can corns get an illeness from it being too humid
Answers:
I put live plants in all my cages. I think it's healthier for them to have live stuff than a sterile cage all the time. I use pothos plants. It's important that they are repotted in clean dirt that has no pesticides or fertilizers and that you wash the leaves well to remove any pesticide sprays. I usually wash any branches I get from outdoors in a water and bleach mixture and then I either microwave them while wet (if they'll fit) or bake them in the oven for a while. You can also use silk plants if you want. I use those also. Wash before placing in the tank.
Excessive humidity can cause blister disease and respiratory infections.
to steralise a stick you find out side, fill your bath with water and submerge the stick under water for around a hour, then place your oven on, at around about 120-140 and then place the wet stick in the oven. the temperatures in teh oven and the steam coming from the wet stick will kill anything that is on or in it :)
i do this will all mine and have no problems with mites etc.
and yes. a cornsnake can have problems with too high humidity, scale rot being one of them. a corn snake only needs around 40-55% humidity. even less would be fine, but idealy no more than 55
the plant of intercourse .
*It says here never put real plants in their cages, here are some good sites
http://www.icon.co.za/~mvdmerwe/care.htm...
http://www.aqualandpetsplus.com/snake,%2...
http://members.aol.com/kathandcam/hawkhe...
http://ecoterrariumsupply.com/corn-snake...
Answers:
I put live plants in all my cages. I think it's healthier for them to have live stuff than a sterile cage all the time. I use pothos plants. It's important that they are repotted in clean dirt that has no pesticides or fertilizers and that you wash the leaves well to remove any pesticide sprays. I usually wash any branches I get from outdoors in a water and bleach mixture and then I either microwave them while wet (if they'll fit) or bake them in the oven for a while. You can also use silk plants if you want. I use those also. Wash before placing in the tank.
Excessive humidity can cause blister disease and respiratory infections.
to steralise a stick you find out side, fill your bath with water and submerge the stick under water for around a hour, then place your oven on, at around about 120-140 and then place the wet stick in the oven. the temperatures in teh oven and the steam coming from the wet stick will kill anything that is on or in it :)
i do this will all mine and have no problems with mites etc.
and yes. a cornsnake can have problems with too high humidity, scale rot being one of them. a corn snake only needs around 40-55% humidity. even less would be fine, but idealy no more than 55
the plant of intercourse .
*It says here never put real plants in their cages, here are some good sites
http://www.icon.co.za/~mvdmerwe/care.htm...
http://www.aqualandpetsplus.com/snake,%2...
http://members.aol.com/kathandcam/hawkhe...
http://ecoterrariumsupply.com/corn-snake...
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